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Discussion Starter #1
From what I know our transmissions are sealed. No topping off fluid, no flushing. Its POSSIBLE to change the filter by changing out the entire pan (filter is built in) then replacing all the fluids.
My question is, how do you KNOW your transmission fluid is up to proper level? The reason I ask is, I had front end work and they removed the transmission cooler coils.
They SAID "little if any fluid leaked"....hmm?
So how do I know my fluid is at proper level?
 

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@Hellno

He might be able to help out with this .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk
 

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From what I know our transmissions are sealed. No topping off fluid, no flushing. Its POSSIBLE to change the filter by changing out the entire pan (filter is built in) then replacing all the fluids.
My question is, how do you KNOW your transmission fluid is up to proper level? The reason I ask is, I had front end work and they removed the transmission cooler coils.
They SAID "little if any fluid leaked"....hmm?
So how do I know my fluid is at proper level?
I thought I had found a video of a Hellcat A8 fluid change and fluid level checking/topping up but it was for the transmission in a Chrysler 300. I tried searching for a Hellcat specific video and had no luck.

But found what is pasted below from another thread on this subject.

Note I make no guarantees regarding the accuracy of the info. My advice would be to flat bed the car to a dealer service department and have the fluid drained, the filter replaced, and the transmission filled with fresh fluid and the level set correctly.

From FSM (Factory Service Manual?):

1- Raise and support the vehicle on a level hoist.
2- Start the engine. The engine must continue to run for the entire test.
3- Using a scan tool or the vehicle information center, verify that the transmission fluid temperature is below 30°C (86°F).
4- Remove the transmission fill plug from the right rear of the transmission case.
5- Add transmission fluid (P/N 68218925AA) until it trickles from the fill opening.
6- Install the transmission fill plug and tighten to the proper torque specification (26 ft.lbs.).
7- Lower the vehicle for access to inside of the vehicle, leaving the tires at least 8 inches off the ground.
8- With the brakes applied, place the transmission in Reverse and hold for 5 seconds.
9- Place the transmission in Drive and hold for 5 seconds.
10- Release the brakes, slowly accelerate to 2nd gear and hold for 5 seconds.
11- Apply the brakes and place the transmission in Neutral.
12- Raise the engine speed to 2000 RPM for 5 seconds.
13- Return the engine to idle and place the transmission in Park.
NOTE: A full transmission will have fluid at the fill hole with the transmission between 30°C (86°F) and 50°C (122°F). Do not over fill.
14- Remove the transmission fill plug and allow excess fluid to drain from fill hole or add fluid as necessary.
15- Install the transmission fill plug and tighten to the proper torque specification (26 ft.lbs.).
16- Using a scan tool, clear any DTCs.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
To do this, its $1100 for the pan/filter (filter is built into the pan), then 14 quarts of fluid $300+......so about $1500 + labor unless I do it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was told they did change the transmission cooler coils but during that change, that NO fluid was lost because when the car is at rest there's no fluid in the coils to lose. How true this is? I don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The old coils, which were damaged but not leaking, had not fluid in it. This being so, they popped on the new coils and did not validate the transmission fluid levels. That may be ok, but to me?...regardless, if that sealed system is opened in any way....Validate the level! no?
 

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To do this, its $1100 for the pan/filter (filter is built into the pan), then 14 quarts of fluid $300+......so about $1500 + labor unless I do it myself.
You are relying upon the shop telling you little or no fluid was lost from the disconnect of the coils. Well, what it is? Little or none?

If little what is the tolerance of the transmission to this change in level? From the level checking instructions and the requirement the temperature be within a rather narrow band I'd hazard a guess the proper fluid level is pretty critical.

But bottom line is you really don't know how much fluid was lost and how tolerant the transmission is to a low fluid level.

Don't know what the cost is but the fluid level must be correct or the transmission is at risk. While the fluid service price is high it is not nearly as high as a new A8 transmission installed would cost.

If you want to skip the fluid/filter replacement that's up to you. But at least you should get the car in and confirm the fluid level is ok and have it made ok if is not ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You are relying upon the shop telling you little or no fluid was lost from the disconnect of the coils. Well, what it is? Little or none?

If little what is the tolerance of the transmission to this change in level? From the level checking instructions and the requirement the temperature be within a rather narrow band I'd hazard a guess the proper fluid level is pretty critical.

But bottom line is you really don't know how much fluid was lost and how tolerant the transmission is to a low fluid level.

Don't know what the cost is but the fluid level must be correct or the transmission is at risk. While the fluid service price is high it is not nearly as high as a new A8 transmission installed would cost.

If you want to skip the fluid/filter replacement that's up to you. But at least you should get the car in and confirm the fluid level is ok and have it made ok if is not ok.
i agree! i just left the dealer (NOT, Where car was fixed) they agreed that most likely ita ok, BUT, the repair shop should have validated.
they would have checked it then but it has to be cool, id have to leave it for hours
the shop that did the repairs is going to do this ill insist. this AND, THE two small end covers on the splitter they didnt put on!
i also sew a few missing plastic rivits . it gets better. they claim, they did NOT TOUCH, the super charger inner cooler... not even to move it during reassembly.
if this is so? WHY, IS my inner cooler fluid level low? i topped it off, and it went a lil low again...(all in first 20 miles)
it seems to have leveled off now, after 50 miles.
my radiator and inner coolant levels have ALWAYS, remained precisely at the same level regardless of weather or engine temp
 

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Discussion Starter #9
oh before someone says "find a new shop" they are like a 4.8 out of 5.... highest rating in dallas.
i trust NONE OF THEM
 

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To do this, its $1100 for the pan/filter (filter is built into the pan), then 14 quarts of fluid $300+......so about $1500 + labor unless I do it myself.
I have to ask, Who on gods earth told you it was that much, HP90 pan/filter lists for 240 bucks give or take dealer matrix....filter change refill takes roughly 6`ish quarts (dry fill is only a tic over 9) so 175`ish for fluid and a couple of hours labor 100-135hr.....Not even close to 1500 bucks unless they are trying to rape you on labor.
 

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I have to ask, Who on gods earth told you it was that much, HP90 pan/filter lists for 240 bucks give or take dealer matrix....filter change refill takes roughly 6`ish quarts (dry fill is only a tic over 9) so 175`ish for fluid and a couple of hours labor 100-135hr.....Not even close to 1500 bucks unless they are trying to rape you on labor.
I dont remember where I heard that. Was told its a sealed system, and I did see on mymoparparts.com the pan filter was expensive....i was originally told 14 quarts at $70 a bottle. You know how that goes? between people not knowing and talking anyway, shops raping you etc etc. What you listed above is say after taxes etc $260 filter pan, 9 times (25 on the wholesale site for fluid) plus at least 2 hours they will gig you at $140 here....is $765....I know I know half of 1500. I was also told unless It got really hot at some point, or towing all the time etc etc there is NO need to do it before 80,000 miles.
 

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16 Challenger hellcat A8. 14K MILES. No tracking or burn outs. Just spirited driving and a lot of 10-20 mile and city driving. Drained little under four quarts and after filter total was somewhere 5 and 8 ounces. It was a hot day and I about ran out of time. I burnt my wet rag that was over the exaust,lol I spent the night in a hotel on base to cool it down to drain it out. Keep in mind once the magnets can not hold anymore it goes straight to the filter portion. Even though you have a filter there is still metals and trash floating around. The new oil has fresh additives to keep it to a minimum.
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door temp-cold. I recommend doing it during the spring or fall though.
 

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If you have a few hours s to kill watch the YouTube’s on this. Temperature changes and throttle applications. I don’t trust the dealer to put it on the lift let alone figure all this shit out. At 50k depending on how long it takes to get there I’ll do a drain/fill version with Amsoil.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
16 Challenger hellcat A8. 14K MILES. No tracking or burn outs. Just spirited driving and a lot of 10-20 mile and city driving. Drained little under four quarts and after filter total was somewhere 5 and 8 ounces. It was a hot day and I about ran out of time. I burnt my wet rag that was over the exaust,lol I spent the night in a hotel on base to cool it down to drain it out. Keep in mind once the magnets can not hold anymore it goes straight to the filter portion. Even though you have a filter there is still metals and trash floating around. The new oil has fresh additives to keep it to a minimum.door temp-cold. I recommend doing it during the spring or fall though.
Kinda of unclear what you have going on here?
 

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It took about three hours of careful torquing on those aluminum trans. bolts, lowering and raising the two post lift, finding a comfortable and CLEAN way to pump that fluid in there,going through the sequence,etc. The big syringe type pump did not work for me!! I tossed that joker away! The fill hole was barely big enough, it was cutting the edge of the hose, and it did not suck the fluid out right. I used my back up..the one you stick in the bottle. I was out of town so I did not do the 160+ degrees transmission line run through and then let it cool again for a final fluid check. What I drained cold was pretty much what I put back in cold. Placing it on the lift took a minute. I used those hockey puck lockers on the front plus a little piece of 1" by 4 to clear the bottom of the door.Watching the Weber auto channel helps a lot. It should be a lot easier next time. I know what to expect. Also a Dodge Demon auto. trans. fluid change online.
 

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It took about three hours of careful torquing on those aluminum trans. bolts, lowering and raising the two post lift, finding a comfortable and CLEAN way to pump that fluid in there,going through the sequence,etc. The big syringe type pump did not work for me!! I tossed that joker away! The fill hole was barely big enough, it was cutting the edge of the hose, and it did not suck the fluid out right. I used my back up..the one you stick in the bottle. I was out of town so I did not do the 160+ degrees transmission line run through and then let it cool again for a final fluid check. What I drained cold was pretty much what I put back in cold. Placing it on the lift took a minute. I used those hockey puck lockers on the front plus a little piece of 1" by 4 to clear the bottom of the door.Watching the Weber auto channel helps a lot. It should be a lot easier next time. I know what to expect. Also a Dodge Demon auto. trans. fluid change online.
Nice. This confirms that there isn’t a dealer in the Country competent enough to do this.
 

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I know what you mean. I've seen and experienced all sorts of stuff with dealerships and oil lube places. Some people do not care. I feel I have to watch everything they do. I try to do whatever it is myself unless it's a recall or under warranty.
 
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