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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I received my '21 Charger Hellcat with the steering pulling hard to the left (if the steering wheel is held straight) and a noticeable vibration coming from the front tires above 70mph.

I took the car to the dealership. They said they "fixed it" under factory specs, but the car still pulled to the left and the vibration was still there because they said they did not feel anything.

Afterward, I took the car to my shop and they did both wheel alignment and balancing. The tech said the balancing issue was with the front right tire and added 5 grams to the backside of the rim and removed 5 grams from the front. The vibration is still there just not as noticeable. He said he may swap the front tire for a perfectly balanced tire from the back that has no issues.

The wheel alignment though he said will not be perfectly straight because of my caster and camber not being aligned. He also put the toes to the way he said would work for my car. However, the car pulls hard to the left if the wheel is held straight.

What do you guys suggest should be the correct toe for front and back for stock charger hellcats? Does anyone know why the tech from my shop adjusted the toes the way he did?

Any suggestions on how to get my car to drive straight when the steering wheel is positioned straight?
 

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I received my '21 Charger Hellcat with the steering pulling hard to the left (if the steering wheel is held straight) and a noticeable vibration coming from the front tires above 70mph.

I took the car to the dealership. They said they "fixed it" under factory specs, but the car still pulled to the left and the vibration was still there because they said they did not feel anything.

Afterward, I took the car to my shop and they did both wheel alignment and balancing. The tech said the balancing issue was with the front right tire and added 5 grams to the backside of the rim and removed 5 grams from the front. The vibration is still there just not as noticeable. He said he may swap the front tire for a perfectly balanced tire from the back that has no issues.

The wheel alignment though he said will not be perfectly straight because of my caster and camber not being aligned. He also put the toes to the way he said would work for my car. However, the car pulls hard to the left if the wheel is held straight.

What do you guys suggest should be the correct toe for front and back for stock charger hellcats? Does anyone know why the tech from my shop adjusted the toes the way he did?

Any suggestions on how to get my car to drive straight when the steering wheel is positioned straight?
The printouts tell a real story and not a good one. There is nothing wrong with your front Caster and Camber. They are both fine considering Dodge punches the body for Road Crown Offset to the Left or driver's side. The Rear Camber offset is more than I like to see but may not be an issue (for now).

The real issue you have is the Toe for each wheel is way out of wack. Each wheel should be EXACTLY .10 Degrees Toe In which is the Factory Spec. Toe In should be EXACTLY .10 Degree each wheel. This will give you a Rear Thrust of 0.0 Degrees so the Rear Axle pushes the car straight down the road. The excessive Rear Toe on your car is going to scrub tires and the Thrust Angle is not 0.0 Degrees. The Front Toe Out is going to Feather your tires on the inside over time.


Attached are the Alignment Specs and all SRTs are the same. Ignore the +- tolerance and go with the EXACT .10 Degree Toe In each Wheel.

Wheel Balance is another issue. Many of us have had the same issue right at 75 or 80 MPH. Upfitters have Hunter Machines which Default to "Smart Weight Mode" or "Smart Weight Mode". These modes do DOT work on our HCs. The tech has to turn these modes OFF for our cars. Do a Search on my name with keyword "balance" to see the exact procedure needed to balance wheels on a Hunter Balancer.

When doing the Wheel Balance, find a local tire shop that has a Hunter Elite Balancer because it can do Road Force checks prior to balancing. Your severe pull may be Road Force where the tire is not properly mounted on the wheel and the tire has some radial/lateral runout causing the pull. Again, the upfitters don't car about Road Force... It's wham bam and done. If Road Force is done to at or near Zero and the wheel are balanced with "Smart Weight Mode" or "Smart Weight Mode" turned OFF and the car is aligned per above and it still pulls/drifts, then you might have a bad tire. Swap the fronts side-to-side and see if the pull goes with the swap.

Let us know...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The printouts tell a real story and not a good one. There is nothing wrong with your front Caster and Camber. They are both fine considering Dodge punches the body for Road Crown Offset to the Left or driver's side. The Rear Camber offset is more than I like to see but may not be an issue (for now).

The real issue you have is the Toe for each wheel is way out of wack. Each wheel should be EXACTLY .10 Degrees Toe In which is the Factory Spec. Toe In should be EXACTLY .10 Degree each wheel. This will give you a Rear Thrust of 0.0 Degrees so the Rear Axle pushes the car straight down the road. The excessive Rear Toe on your car is going to scrub tires and the Thrust Angle is not 0.0 Degrees. The Front Toe Out is going to Feather your tires on the inside over time.


Attached are the Alignment Specs and all SRTs are the same. Ignore the +- tolerance and go with the EXACT .10 Degree Toe In each Wheel.

Wheel Balance is another issue. Many of us have had the same issue right at 75 or 80 MPH. Upfitters have Hunter Machines which Default to "Smart Weight Mode" or "Smart Weight Mode". These modes do DOT work on our HCs. The tech has to turn these modes OFF for our cars. Do a Search on my name with keyword "balance" to see the exact procedure needed to balance wheels on a Hunter Balancer.

When doing the Wheel Balance, find a local tire shop that has a Hunter Elite Balancer because it can do Road Force checks prior to balancing. Your severe pull may be Road Force where the tire is not properly mounted on the wheel and the tire has some radial/lateral runout causing the pull. Again, the upfitters don't car about Road Force... It's wham bam and done. If Road Force is done to at or near Zero and the wheel are balanced with "Smart Weight Mode" or "Smart Weight Mode" turned OFF and the car is aligned per above and it still pulls/drifts, then you might have a bad tire. Swap the fronts side-to-side and see if the pull goes with the swap.

Let us know...
Thank you Blickie!

I spoke to my tech and we will redo the wheel alignment exactly to .10 toe in. He told me that the specs he did for me are factory prescribed but accelerated to 250% tighter allowed tolerance.

I will also monitor him when he does the balancing for the tire. I'll keep you guys updated on the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So after more than a year, I have an update!

I did 3 wheel alignments last year and balanced the tires with no luck. After each alignment with the toes at .10, the alignment would get messed up again literally 2 weeks later. I drove the car with the steering wheel not straight since then, but the vibration somewhat went away on its own. It was noticeable at times, but rarely. The only other issue I had, which I never mentioned here, was that I would feel a slight clunk in my front right tire when driving fast, on the highway, through certain bumps or road imperfections. Almost like a bearing issue type feel. It was barely noticeable, but as the main driver, I felt it. That also somehow magically went away just like the vibration. The only issue was the steering wheel not being straight.

However, in Sept '22 something new happened. My EPS (Electric Power Steering) fault light came on when I was parking and my steering wheel became extremely tight. I turned the car off and back on with the code disappearing and the issue never coming back. This, to me, wasn't normal so I made an appointment with a Dodge service department that a buddy of mine recommended. They found an ECU Over Temperature C2210 code. The master foreman said that the power steering rack is bad because of the code. He was also shocked at how the alignment kept getting messed up within a 2 week interval. They ended up doing 3 alignments, after changing the rack, within the same day to fix the issue. Since replacing the rack, the car has definitely been a lot straighter but still doesn't feel 100%.

Guess which issues came back? The vibration and slight clunk issue! Also, the wheel now barely, but noticeably, pulls to the right now instead of the left 🤦‍♂️

I have two solutions left for troubleshooting at this point.

First, I will go to a tire shop that has the Road Force Elite balancer and get all four tires balanced, then I will swap the front tires with the back to see if there is a difference as @Blickie said.

If that does not fix the issue, then I will change both the front right and left Brake Hub and Bearing (68470270AA).
Before I change the bearings, I will lift the front tires off the ground and see if they wiggle. That is usually an indicator that the bearing is bad.

I will keep you posted on the results.
 

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So after more than a year, I have an update!

I did 3 wheel alignments last year and balanced the tires with no luck. After each alignment with the toes at .10, the alignment would get messed up again literally 2 weeks later. I drove the car with the steering wheel not straight since then, but the vibration somewhat went away on its own. It was noticeable at times, but rarely. The only other issue I had, which I never mentioned here, was that I would feel a slight clunk in my front right tire when driving fast, on the highway, through certain bumps or road imperfections. Almost like a bearing issue type feel. It was barely noticeable, but as the main driver, I felt it. That also somehow magically went away just like the vibration. The only issue was the steering wheel not being straight.

However, in Sept '22 something new happened. My EPS (Electric Power Steering) fault light came on when I was parking and my steering wheel became extremely tight. I turned the car off and back on with the code disappearing and the issue never coming back. This, to me, wasn't normal so I made an appointment with a Dodge service department that a buddy of mine recommended. They found an ECU Over Temperature C2210 code. The master foreman said that the power steering rack is bad because of the code. He was also shocked at how the alignment kept getting messed up within a 2 week interval. They ended up doing 3 alignments, after changing the rack, within the same day to fix the issue. Since replacing the rack, the car has definitely been a lot straighter but still doesn't feel 100%.

Guess which issues came back? The vibration and slight clunk issue! Also, the wheel now barely, but noticeably, pulls to the right now instead of the left 🤦‍♂️

I have two solutions left for troubleshooting at this point.

First, I will go to a tire shop that has the Road Force Elite balancer and get all four tires balanced, then I will swap the front tires with the back to see if there is a difference as @Blickie said.

If that does not fix the issue, then I will change both the front right and left Brake Hub and Bearing (68470270AA).
Before I change the bearings, I will lift the front tires off the ground and see if they wiggle. That is usually an indicator that the bearing is bad.

I will keep you posted on the results.
When you say the "Alignment messed up," how specifically? Front?? Rear?? Both?? Centerline Steering?? Broad, general comments are hard to understand and diagnose.

Who does the alignment and what is the machine they are using??

On your front pull to the right, best to swap front wheels side to side to see if it goes left with the swap; not front to back.

You might very well have a wheel bearing issue & you are right to ensure this box is checked.

Search on my Wheel Balance Tips & how to set up the balancer. Checking Road Force is always a good idea followed by a balance per my tips. Smart Weight/Smart Balance Mode MUST be turned off. Each wheel is its own entity and must roll true and straight and be neutral balanced.

You might need to find a good Frame & Alignment shop to get a really good alignment after getting your parts issues fixed. That's what I did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When you say the "Alignment messed up," how specifically? Front?? Rear?? Both?? Centerline Steering?? Broad, general comments are hard to understand and diagnose.

Who does the alignment and what is the machine they are using??

On your front pull to the right, best to swap front wheels side to side to see if it goes left with the swap; not front to back.

You might very well have a wheel bearing issue & you are right to ensure this box is checked.

Search on my Wheel Balance Tips & how to set up the balancer. Checking Road Force is always a good idea followed by a balance per my tips. Smart Weight/Smart Balance Mode MUST be turned off. Each wheel is its own entity and must roll true and straight and be neutral balanced.

You might need to find a good Frame & Alignment shop to get a really good alignment after getting your parts issues fixed. That's what I did.
The initial issue was that the car always pulled strongly to the left when the wheel was being held straight. After all 3 alignments, 2 weeks would pass and the same issue would return with the car pulling strongly to the left. No alignment fixed the issue until the rack was changed. Based on the alignment, it seems that the front two tires were affected the most. I attached all my past alignments. I will also ask my current Dodge service for a copy of the alignments if they still have them.

The first alignment was done by a different Dodge Service than the one I went to now. The other two were done by my performance shop, Eurotech in Mahwah, NJ. I believe both shops have Hunter alignment machines.

Okay, I will swap only the front tires first. If the car still pulls, should I swap the front for the back to see if maybe a tire is defective?
 

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The initial issue was that the car always pulled strongly to the left when the wheel was being held straight. After all 3 alignments, 2 weeks would pass and the same issue would return with the car pulling strongly to the left. No alignment fixed the issue until the rack was changed. Based on the alignment, it seems that the front two tires were affected the most. I attached all my past alignments. I will also ask my current Dodge service for a copy of the alignments if they still have them.

The first alignment was done by a different Dodge Service than the one I went to now. The other two were done by my performance shop, Eurotech in Mahwah, NJ. I believe both shops have Hunter alignment machines.

Okay, I will swap only the front tires first. If the car still pulls, should I swap the front for the back to see if maybe a tire is defective?
The front Caster & Camber look very close to Factory & the way the Body Bolt/Mounting Locations are punched/built, which is to say the LF has slightly less Castor than the RF to offset for the Road Crown being on the Left. This is Factory. Nothing on your printouts explain a hard/strong left pull or drift.

As I have stated on other posts, the Factory has no way to align these cars after assembly due to both cradles. I suspect the original front tires were noticeably Feathered from the Factory.

I don't like the Toe In on some wheels... it should be exactly .1 Degree Toe In each wheel. On the rear, that will give you a 0.0 Rear Thrust Angle which is what you really, really want. Tell the techs you do NOT want an "In the Green" Alignment. You want to align based on actual numbers, dead nuts on.

You are checking the front bearings...
You replaced the Steering Rack...
You are check Road Force and rebalancing all wheels...
Check all the Strut Rods on the Front Suspension... see exploded view attached #17 & #28 Bushings & #23 as well.

Am curious the result of swapping front wheel side to side.

Your car has Electric Assist Steering, yes?

Am not sure I would trust these new generation Hunter Alignment Machines; I had to go to a proper Frame & Alignment Shop that measured everything manually.

Best!

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Long as it goes straight when it’s on the bar…

Once the front end comes down I use the steering wheel to keep it off the wall
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The front Caster & Camber look very close to Factory & the way the Body Bolt/Mounting Locations are punched/built, which is to say the LF has slightly less Castor than the RF to offset for the Road Crown being on the Left. This is Factory. Nothing on your printouts explain a hard/strong left pull or drift.

As I have stated on other posts, the Factory has no way to align these cars after assembly due to both cradles. I suspect the original front tires were noticeably Feathered from the Factory.

I don't like the Toe In on some wheels... it should be exactly .1 Degree Toe In each wheel. On the rear, that will give you a 0.0 Rear Thrust Angle which is what you really, really want. Tell the techs you do NOT want an "In the Green" Alignment. You want to align based on actual numbers, dead nuts on.

You are checking the front bearings...
You replaced the Steering Rack...
You are check Road Force and rebalancing all wheels...
Check all the Strut Rods on the Front Suspension... see exploded view attached #17 & #28 Bushings & #23 as well.

Am curious the result of swapping front wheel side to side.

Your car has Electric Assist Steering, yes?

Am not sure I would trust these new generation Hunter Alignment Machines; I had to go to a proper Frame & Alignment Shop that measured everything manually.

Best!

View attachment 606127
I have an update. Dealerships officially suck. I ended up getting a copy of their alignment. They did not do the best job. I went to another shop that is known for balancing and alignments.

To answer your question yes, my car has electric power steering.

Three tires needed balancing. One of the three tires that got rebalanced needed the tire to be repositioned too. However, the fourth tire did not need rebalancing, but the machine said it needed repositioning, but could not reposition the tire. The tire would wobble while spinning on the balancing machine. We confirmed that the tire was bad. In fact, when I drove the car afterward, the vibration was gone, but I could feel the slight bouncing motion from the rear of the bad tire. I will be ordering a set of Michelin tires. They also swapped the front tires as you stated. No difference.

I performed an alignment with them as well. Apparently, every single shop, including the dealership, never updated their Hunter Alignment equipment. The shop I went to always calibrates and updates their equipment and the specifications were different! The tech said he can not align the back to perfect .5 because if he does one side .5 then the other side goes off. He said .4 on each is the best he can do. The car definitely drives a lot better since their work was performed, but it still does not drive 100% straight. 😔

@Blickie In regards to your suggestion on checking the strut rods and front suspension, I decided as my next step to upgrade the parts completely and get the AAD Performance full suspension set (Front and Rear Upper Control Arms, Trailing Arms, and Adjustable Toe Links). Hopefully, that will fix the issue.
 

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I have an update. Dealerships officially suck. I ended up getting a copy of their alignment. They did not do the best job. I went to another shop that is known for balancing and alignments.

To answer your question yes, my car has electric power steering.

Three tires needed balancing. One of the three tires that got rebalanced needed the tire to be repositioned too. However, the fourth tire did not need rebalancing, but the machine said it needed repositioning, but could not reposition the tire. The tire would wobble while spinning on the balancing machine. We confirmed that the tire was bad. In fact, when I drove the car afterward, the vibration was gone, but I could feel the slight bouncing motion from the rear of the bad tire. I will be ordering a set of Michelin tires. They also swapped the front tires as you stated. No difference.

I performed an alignment with them as well. Apparently, every single shop, including the dealership, never updated their Hunter Alignment equipment. The shop I went to always calibrates and updates their equipment and the specifications were different! The tech said he can not align the back to perfect .5 because if he does one side .5 then the other side goes off. He said .4 on each is the best he can do. The car definitely drives a lot better since their work was performed, but it still does not drive 100% straight. 😔

@Blickie In regards to your suggestion on checking the strut rods and front suspension, I decided as my next step to upgrade the parts completely and get the AAD Performance full suspension set (Front and Rear Upper Control Arms, Trailing Arms, and Adjustable Toe Links). Hopefully, that will fix the issue.
Your “stock” car looks about as good as it can unless you do it yourself.

The toe numbers are pretty good now. If you have remaining tracking problems it is a tire or wheel.

Blickie has it all right. Now for perfection get the AAD equipment.
 
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I have an update. Dealerships officially suck. I ended up getting a copy of their alignment. They did not do the best job. I went to another shop that is known for balancing and alignments.

To answer your question yes, my car has electric power steering.

Three tires needed balancing. One of the three tires that got rebalanced needed the tire to be repositioned too. However, the fourth tire did not need rebalancing, but the machine said it needed repositioning, but could not reposition the tire. The tire would wobble while spinning on the balancing machine. We confirmed that the tire was bad. In fact, when I drove the car afterward, the vibration was gone, but I could feel the slight bouncing motion from the rear of the bad tire. I will be ordering a set of Michelin tires. They also swapped the front tires as you stated. No difference.

I performed an alignment with them as well. Apparently, every single shop, including the dealership, never updated their Hunter Alignment equipment. The shop I went to always calibrates and updates their equipment and the specifications were different! The tech said he can not align the back to perfect .5 because if he does one side .5 then the other side goes off. He said .4 on each is the best he can do. The car definitely drives a lot better since their work was performed, but it still does not drive 100% straight. 😔

@Blickie In regards to your suggestion on checking the strut rods and front suspension, I decided as my next step to upgrade the parts completely and get the AAD Performance full suspension set (Front and Rear Upper Control Arms, Trailing Arms, and Adjustable Toe Links). Hopefully, that will fix the issue.
Caster & Camber on both front and rear should work and very close to Factory Setup.

You are saying the Performance Shop has updated Alignment Specs??

The Performance Shop Alignment looks good. Although the toe for each wheel is half of what I thought Factory Spec was (unless it's been updated), it matches side to side so the steering wheel should be straight rolling down the road. You could drive the car and watch for tire feathering primarily on inside of all tires. front and rear, if you are running the Performance Shop Alignment.

How does it track? Any Drift or Pull??

What do you mean, "it still doesn't drive 100% straight?"

Many here like Michelin, but I just installed a set of Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 Plus on my '19. Might consider these.
 
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