Whp?

Here’s a dyno sheet, my M6 Hellcat stock at around 11-12 psi of boost and with a 2.85 pulley and ID 1050’s on good 93 octane fuel splashed with an octane booster as knock sensor volts started to climb and the pro tuner, which was HHP at that time said enough and that was 775 or so wheel. Porting the blower and a bigger TB made 2 lbs more boost, up to 17.5 Psi got me to 855 wheel. I’m at 940 wheel now on corn with a double 285 fuel pump system and lots of drive train parts. I know first Hand the journey to here, its got a price.

This first picture first 2 pulls are stock, middle 2 pulls stock with a KN filter in stock air box, last 2 pulls where with a JLT CIA.
Last dyno sheet the major players are a 2.85 pulley, and ID1050X injectors,






This next dyno sheet is ported blower, $1000 bilet inlet plate, ported inlet snout, 95mm Fastman TB. Started at 800 wheel before, I tweaked 25 more HP from her with timing changes (timing and octane booster)


This next dyno sheet is in E85, dual 285 pump system still with work done on the fuel delivery system so the ID 1050’s would still keep up, and about 10,000$ of drive train and suspension goodies to handle the power and get it to the ground

That was last November. Over winter pulled the engine and went fully forged, Demon Cam, 2700$ Custom made Wiseco pistons, all kinds of goodies, about another 10k, What did that net?

Nothing yet except for a reliable strong platform to keep going from here. Making HP, at least repeatable long term HP usually cost $
But no doubt good luck on your quest, I’m VERY interested in what you net.
But 9 second Stick full weight Challengers with all the bells and whistles still on the car aren’t a dime a dozen either

Edit spelling and auto word correct errors

OK, Dynojet I only ask as different brands give different figures. That is an impressive amount of torque no doubt, and torque is time no doubt but Horsepower is speed, you need a good mix of both. Getting that much torque to hook up is going to be tough even on good prep and big tires but at least with a auto you can try and tune allot of it out down low to launch but now your purposely taking away power you paid to get. I’m by far not a cam expert but that offset of tq vs hp is not the norm unless spray is involved. I’d be wanting to know from the builder was cam actually degreed or just installed by the marks? I know many a pro engine builder that have gotten it wrong, including a recent one where cam was installed 1 tooth off, it wasn’t his first rodeo either, luckily it didn’t crash the engine but he knew from VVT position it was wrong on startup. I build engines myself, I spent 2 days degreeing mine over and over and over again never having to adjust it but wanting to know it was 1000000% correct no doubt before putting it all back together, crashing 2700$ pistons into the valves was not an option. What timing chain set did you use? Stock Hellcat/Redeye set with pinned VVT unit or aftermarket with indexable crank gear and solid cam gear? Did you contact EMP and ask them their opinion of the Tq and HP figures and see what their opinion is?