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I’m getting a vibration in the steering wheel with light braking at highway speeds. I just had the tires road force balanced with no luck. I’m betting rotors are warped. Will Dodge cover a rotor swap in the first 12 months?
 

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I’m getting a vibration in the steering wheel with light braking at highway speeds. I just had the tires road force balanced with no luck. I’m betting rotors are warped. Will Dodge cover a rotor swap in the first 12 months?
Actual warping of the rotors is rare. (To confirm it is warpping you need to measure the radial/axial run out of the rotor surfaces.)

What probably happened -- it happened to me with another car -- is you subjected the brakes to an event in which (uneven) material deposition from the pad to the rotor occurred.

In my case this happened when I washed the car and let it sit overnight with the brakes wet. They rusted of course and in fact froze up and emitted a noticeable "pop" when they broke loose when I went to use the car. I got on the road and was going down the highway at speed -- legal speed -- when I had to make an emergency stop to avoid a stop light runner. I got the car stopped in time. I left the brake pedal applied.

Afterwards I noticed a mild vibration/pulsing when I used the brakes. I tried bedding in the brakes (again) but it didn't help. The dealer refused to do anything about the condition. And maybe rightly so it was operator "error" not a brake rotor defect.

I found if I used a slightly more aggressive braking technique the pulsing didn't occur. I drove the car to 150K miles and on its original brakes, too. Had just about forgotten the issue but when I let a prospective buyer test drive the car she of course used very light braking and the pulsing showed up. She still bought the car but I made a slightly downward adjustment to the price.

In your case if you can't "eliminate" the symptom by changing your braking technique like I did -- and change was not dramatic -- you are faced with either having the rotors turned or replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The first thing I tried was the hard braking to clean off any deposits, no luck. I even changed pads. Slight improvement but the judder was still present when lightly braking between 65-75. This was before I had the tires rebalanced. Pulsing only occurs between 65-75 mph with light braking. Yesterday, I got the car up to 100mph on the express lane (yes I know I’m breaking the law at those speeds but there was not one other car on the toll road) and when I hit the brakes to slow down it pulsated like crazy for a a couple of seconds. That’s why I’m curious if Dodge will cover rotors within X amount of months from new.
 

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I’ve heard of them being replaced early under warranty. Just need to prove and document. The dealership will be your final decision maker.
 

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The first thing I tried was the hard braking to clean off any deposits, no luck. I even changed pads. Slight improvement but the judder was still present when lightly braking between 65-75. This was before I had the tires rebalanced. Pulsing only occurs between 65-75 mph with light braking. Yesterday, I got the car up to 100mph on the express lane (yes I know I’m breaking the law at those speeds but there was not one other car on the toll road) and when I hit the brakes to slow down it pulsated like crazy for a a couple of seconds. That’s why I’m curious if Dodge will cover rotors within X amount of months from new.
If the problem is uneven pad material deposition hard braking -- break bedding in like hard braking -- will not help.

If the problem is warped rotors hard braking will not help either. Resurfacing or replacement is the only options I know of.

You need, the dealer needs to determine what is wrong. If it is warping of the rotors that should be something the warranty should cover.

Added: If the problem is uneven pad material deposition and if I as I suspect the dealer will not address this under any warranty and if it is not too bad you could try using a coarse emery sanding disc to rough up the brake rotor surfaces. You do not remove any material you want to simply rough sand -- the coarser the grit the better -- the rotor surfaces doing this in a uniform way.

Then take the car out and do a brake bedding operation. If you did things right -- and have a bit of good luck -- the pulsing should be gone.

The above assumes you have a suitable disc sander -- electric or air -- and the setup to lift the car and the ability to safely remove the rotors and rough sand them. And of course to properly reinstall the rotors.
 

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You can sand, grind, machine, bed, polish rotors till you're blue in the face. It won't last and is a waste of time. The real and best fix is replacement. Unfortunately rotors for these cars are quite expensive unless you go aftermarket. I would definitely try and get them replaced under the 12/12 warranty, if that turns out to be the issue.
 

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You can sand, grind, machine, bed, polish rotors till you're blue in the face. It won't last and is a waste of time. The real and best fix is replacement. Unfortunately rotors for these cars are quite expensive unless you go aftermarket. I would definitely try and get them replaced under the 12/12 warranty, if that turns out to be the issue.
Probably right but it gives one something to do until one is willing to bite the bullet and resurface or replace the rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You can sand, grind, machine, bed, polish rotors till you're blue in the face. It won't last and is a waste of time. The real and best fix is replacement. Unfortunately rotors for these cars are quite expensive unless you go aftermarket. I would definitely try and get them replaced under the 12/12 warranty, if that turns out to be the issue.
This is what I’m shooting for. I’ve had rotors turned in the past and the vibration almost always comes back. The one thing I did notice, the pulsing was most noticeable after the rotors/pads were “at temp”.
 

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I think vented/slotted rotors can't be turned. They need to be replaced. If your SVM is good to you he can get them covered.
 
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