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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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Would this be a warranty item?
Only if the car is new enough to be under warranty. I assume this wouldn't even fall under drive train but even if it did all 2015's and now a lot of 2016s are out of factory warranty due to age.



Threw a CEL and the dealership diagnosed a bad AEV motor. They wanted to charge me $850 to replace it and new ones are $300.

I stumbled upon these in my search for solutions. Anyone using these?
I think most people are using the delete kits that basically relocate the motor and fake it into thinking it's still working while holding the valve open with some sort of locking system. They are cheaper and thus why they go that route. Since that obviously wont fix your problem these are a good alternative. If the CEL is from the motor seizing up and not moving at all or the switch internally to it not recognizing the open/closed status points what you linked should work. Hopefully someone else chimes in with direct experience but it "should" stop your CEL. The "should" is because all other aspect of the system must be working and not part of your fault, but if it's just the motor itself, it's a promising solution.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Only if the car is new enough to be under warranty. I assume this wouldn't even fall under drive train but even if it did all 2015's and now a lot of 2016s are out of factory warranty due to age.




I think most people are using the delete kits that basically relocate the motor and fake it into thinking it's still working while holding the valve open with some sort of locking system. They are cheaper and thus why they go that route. Since that obviously wont fix your problem these are a good alternative. If the CEL is from the motor seizing up and not moving at all or the switch internally to it not recognizing the open/closed status points what you linked should work. Hopefully someone else chimes in with direct experience but it "should" stop your CEL. The "should" is because all other aspect of the system must be working and not part of your fault, but if it's just the motor itself, it's a promising solution.
Frosty, I agree. I'll be purchasing both and see what happens with each one. I got the ZIC modules on order and well as the KHAOS deletes and a new AEV motor. If the ZIC works it'll be a game changer for sure. We can quite a bit of weight out of the exhaust system removing those motors completely.
 

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Keep in mind you'll probably need to clear the code. Not sure if you'll be able to do that from a simple ODB2 adapter or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Keep in mind you'll probably need to clear the code. Not sure if you'll be able to do that from a simple ODB2 adapter or not.
Thanks man. I have a fairly advanced scan tool. Its no Snap On but, it'll erase codes.
 

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Just do cutouts after the mid muffler, so you can close them whenever, it bypasses the active exhaust valves (which are essentially stuck however they are in your case), is quiet as stock when you want it to be, and sounds like a mid muffler delete when opened. best of both worlds. and qtp makes a kit that can be bought and installed for less than $500.

2016 Hellcat Manual w/ Exhaust cutouts - YouTube
sound clip if you're interested.
 

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I have z-automotives version of the the unit zic is selling. works fine. I chose this route only because I don't want to muck up my exhaust by cutting them out or mess with relocating to the trunk or under the car somewhere. plus its real easy to hook them back up for warranty work as I have the MOPAR extended warranty on my 2017 HC Challenger
 

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2017 Challenger Hellcat
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I’m using the MFER-1 deletes and super happy with them.
 

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2018 Charger Hellcat
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I run the AES kit. Been on the car since 2018. Last year, they kept siezing & blowing the active exhaust fuse. WD40 fixed that. Back to working fine for a while now. AES wanted me to buy another kit & wouldn't do anything lol no. If they seize again, I'll just get MFER-1 plates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just do cutouts after the mid muffler, so you can close them whenever, it bypasses the active exhaust valves (which are essentially stuck however they are in your case), is quiet as stock when you want it to be, and sounds like a mid muffler delete when opened. best of both worlds. and qtp makes a kit that can be bought and installed for less than $500.

2016 Hellcat Manual w/ Exhaust cutouts - YouTube
sound clip if you're interested.
I have the QTP cutouts sitting in the garage. Haven't had time to install them. Thanks man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have z-automotives version of the the unit zic is selling. works fine. I chose this route only because I don't want to muck up my exhaust by cutting them out or mess with relocating to the trunk or under the car somewhere. plus its real easy to hook them back up for warranty work as I have the MOPAR extended warranty on my 2017 HC Challenger
This is what I was hoping to hear. Gonna go with the electronic solution, remove the entire mid muffler section and save them, and then just put on straight pipes in that section.
 

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This is what I was hoping to hear. Gonna go with the electronic solution, remove the entire mid muffler section and save them, and then just put on straight pipes in that section.
Yeah I have no complaints so far with the Z-auto version. as stated above my goal was to retain the OEM exhaust system in tact and uncut except for the mid muff removal which I replaced with 3 in S/S sections of pipe. I also did NOT want to "zip tie" the AEV stepper motors under the car or relocate them in the trunk as that would have been a red flag for any warranty work that may arise. My only thought is that before I installed the electronic simulators the car would cycle the AEV as normal on cold start up which you could easily identify and hear. Now, after the install, you can still hear a slight change in idle pitch when the car warms up and idles down. It cant be the valves as they aren't hooked up anymore so it must be the idle change in RPM's that causing it.
 

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I got an extended BTB and Powertrain Max Care. Anyone looking to sell one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah I have no complaints so far with the Z-auto version. as stated above my goal was to retain the OEM exhaust system in tact and uncut except for the mid muff removal which I replaced with 3 in S/S sections of pipe. I also did NOT want to "zip tie" the AEV stepper motors under the car or relocate them in the trunk as that would have been a red flag for any warranty work that may arise. My only thought is that before I installed the electronic simulators the car would cycle the AEV as normal on cold start up which you could easily identify and hear. Now, after the install, you can still hear a slight change in idle pitch when the car warms up and idles down. It cant be the valves as they aren't hooked up anymore so it must be the idle change in RPM's that causing it.
All this information is much appreciated! Thank you for replying!
 

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So I take it that the values are open when not running, and then you install this kit. Correct? Just wondering on how the values get opened in the first place before you install the kit.
 
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