Recently got a 2016 Challenger Hellcat, has about 24k miles on it and I’m pretty sure it’s bone stock except for mid and rear muffler delete and JLT CAI. The most obvious things I’ve read so far are making sure the car can hook so once I put some lowering springs and wider tires where should I start? Also I know if for example you change the headers you’ll need a tune to couple it with so I just want to know a good set up to add hp and what I need to couple said set up with to make it work and still semi-daily drive it. Not looking to take it to the track much.
Beginner Hellcat owner unsure where to start for performance mods
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- first mods help mods stock
SRT Cam
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Aside from looks, lowering springs are a net negative mod. They are a performance inhibitor. I won't go into the details as to why, you can look that up for yourself. All you need to know is that even so much as a .5" lower in the rear is enough to noticeably torpedo your traction due to how they lighten the rear end and impart more wheel spin lower in the RPM range. Lowering springs are a bit of a rice mod used on cheap faux performance cars that don't make a lot of torque. I'd say a Mustang is the upper end of the limit on being able to use mild lowering springs and not be abjectly ruined on a street launch. Hellcat, no such luck. It's one thing to monkey with the rear geometry on a car with 380-400 lb.ft. torque and another when the car has 650-700+. Lowering springs simply prohibit weight transfer which will make your Hellcat considerably slower.
If you want a lowered stance without the drawback of performance loss, use coilovers. You'll understand why I call lowering springs a rice mod when you see the cost of a proper coilover setup.
If you want a lowered stance without the drawback of performance loss, use coilovers. You'll understand why I call lowering springs a rice mod when you see the cost of a proper coilover setup.
Welcome to the forum and Congratulations on your New (to You) Hellcat!
My first question before giving you a recommendation of mods is: Do you have experience with High powered, High torque, low traction automobiles?
If not, then my first mod would be the Driver Mod! The Driver Mod is where you drive your cars the way that it sits now and learn to use that power adequately because if you have trouble driving your Cat stock, then adding power would probably just get you (or someone else) hurt or worse.
After that, the choice is yours between better traction and more power and I'd equate that to the Chicken and the Egg type of deal. It would be do you add power and then work on traction or add traction now, which could be upset with the addition of more power.
Good Luck!
My first question before giving you a recommendation of mods is: Do you have experience with High powered, High torque, low traction automobiles?
If not, then my first mod would be the Driver Mod! The Driver Mod is where you drive your cars the way that it sits now and learn to use that power adequately because if you have trouble driving your Cat stock, then adding power would probably just get you (or someone else) hurt or worse.
After that, the choice is yours between better traction and more power and I'd equate that to the Chicken and the Egg type of deal. It would be do you add power and then work on traction or add traction now, which could be upset with the addition of more power.
Good Luck!
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IMO traction is everything. Without it, you are losing. More power + no traction = waste of time and money. I personally wouldn't add power until I could drive a sub 3.5 0-60 on the street, consistently. My 2020 could do that on 275 all season Michelins. Once you can routinely stamp out solid 0-60s, then you add power, adjust for better traction, and relearn how to drive it again. But, chasing power while disregarding traction and driver input ability is a glorious waste of time.
In the following scenario, the driver is blowing the tires off all the time, but wants more power. They go online and "research" what some other cars have and mimic that. Upper/lower pulley(s), injectors, maybe E85, tune, fuel pumps, chiller mod (if non redeye)... now they're running 900whp and they're still blowing the tires off. They add drag springs, rear cradle mods... still blowing the tires off. Change tires... still blowing the tires off. Now, they start going to different shops and start using different parts for the same mods they already tried to replace... still blowing the tires off. Change air pressure, add K member, different bushings... still blowing the tires off.
The right way to do it is in increments. Learn the baseline. Get your launch performance at your target goal. Then, add mods. Repeat and don't do any more until you get back to your launch performance goal. This way, the driver stays on top of the changes to the car, and the limited modifications allows the driver to not only understand what's causing the new behavior, but how to offset that and plan for future upgrades if needed. Thus, if by adding 100hp, it imparts considerable wheel spin, then you know you need to adjust the shocks/springs a certain degree and lower the psi in the tire to some set level. Increasing another 100 will require yet another rear end adjustment.
With each increment, the driver is going to have to re-learn the launch routine, as the car is not going to be able to launch the same way as before. Coarse example, take a Scat Pack and a Hellcat. You can typically launch a Scat Pack on a prepped drag strip at absolute WOT from around 3,500 rpm. No drama, scoots and goes. You do that with a Hellcat, and it's a smoke show. Now, the diffference in power between the two is around 225hp or so. This is about the same disparity between a stock Hellcat and a 900whp E85 mod that's quite common. So, you can't launch the car the same way as you did before the mod and you'll have to learn it. If you don't learn how to drive it the old way, now you're just at the mercy of the tuner/shop/mod quality and you have to assume everything is working right because your baseline data set is flawed (you didn't know how to drive the original "good" format). If something is off with the build, you won't have any idea and you'll be playing the WTF IS GOING ON WITH MY DAMN CAR game for months.
I agree 1000% and that's Very well put!
Learning your car is the key!
Let's just say that this hypothetical situation happened (
).....................When We had our 2015 SRT 392 and came across a Hellcat. We rolled from a dig and up to about 60 mph, I got out on Him and then I could hear his car hooking up because I don't know how the boat anchor dropped out of Ruby (Our old SRT) because that Cat made up ground QUICKLY! The hypothetical race was over then because why try and catch up to something that was gapping me? I was happy that I did that well though (if it Really happened )!My best 0-60 times were consistently in the 3.9-4.1 second range on the stock Pirelli's (which were junk, in my opinion). I spent alot of time learning how to launch that car though (and there are a couple parking lots with some tire marks to prove it too)!
23’ charger jailbreak ported blower, 2.75 upper, 10% lower, 1050whp
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Go with NT555 R2 you won’t regret it. Day and night difference
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Agree with the ride height and the stock springs. Leave it alone.
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I thought I posted in this thread already. But I don't see it now.
Anyway, I recommend doing nothing. Leave it alone. Enjoy the car as it is for a couple years. The impulse to mod it will wane. And when the next shiny thing catches your eye, and you trying to sell it, your un-modded car will likely get a better price than a highly modded car.
Anyway, I recommend doing nothing. Leave it alone. Enjoy the car as it is for a couple years. The impulse to mod it will wane. And when the next shiny thing catches your eye, and you trying to sell it, your un-modded car will likely get a better price than a highly modded car.
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CONGRATS on the HC & WELCOME 🍺
I agree fully on drive it, learn it, experience it, BEFORE doing performance Mods, but if it has Pirelli's on it they are outright dangerous and can kill you.
Drag Radials make a night & day difference and transform the entire driving experience, I choose to go with 18x10 Wheels on my 16 HC and 305/45/18 NT05R's (eliminates 100% of wheel hop). Wheels should be wider to take full advantage but it was a deal i couldn't refuse and the difference is truly amazing and night & day better
![Image]()
I agree fully on drive it, learn it, experience it, BEFORE doing performance Mods, but if it has Pirelli's on it they are outright dangerous and can kill you.
Drag Radials make a night & day difference and transform the entire driving experience, I choose to go with 18x10 Wheels on my 16 HC and 305/45/18 NT05R's (eliminates 100% of wheel hop). Wheels should be wider to take full advantage but it was a deal i couldn't refuse and the difference is truly amazing and night & day better
Hmmm. Do lowering springs help or hinder traction? Who to believe. lol
You can spot a spammer very quickly!
This is her 3rd spam blast name out of here.
It appears to be using AI technology.
Answer is believe the guy who goes to the track!
@HC5120 FTW!
-Linda
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Lowering the car makes traction more difficult or costly.
1) either directly because more camber is introduced and can't be adjusted out or..
2) adjusted out but at the cost of expensive adjustable components (which aren't a bad idea anyway for racing)
3) any lowered car that uses CV type joints runs the risk of damaging said joints. Especially as the power increases.
I'm in the process of "fixing" my traction problems because of buying my car lowered (with stock arms and 1.5-2* of static camber). When I check the tire patch with a burnout on my commuting 305/35-20 tires, I literally only get 60-75% of the tire patch on the pavement. Not good. It's better than that with a drag radial at 18psi, but it's not good for performance. I don't want to raise the car, but if I take the camber out of it with adjustable arms, then I introduce more misalignment back into the CV joints and boots.
So, even though I'm a fan of lowered cars (not the leaned in style 300z's, Sylvias, miatas, though), I'd say hold off on any drastic suspension work until you get some quality driving time. If you aren't really going to track your car much or push the limits with drag radials, you can slam it.
1) either directly because more camber is introduced and can't be adjusted out or..
2) adjusted out but at the cost of expensive adjustable components (which aren't a bad idea anyway for racing)
3) any lowered car that uses CV type joints runs the risk of damaging said joints. Especially as the power increases.
I'm in the process of "fixing" my traction problems because of buying my car lowered (with stock arms and 1.5-2* of static camber). When I check the tire patch with a burnout on my commuting 305/35-20 tires, I literally only get 60-75% of the tire patch on the pavement. Not good. It's better than that with a drag radial at 18psi, but it's not good for performance. I don't want to raise the car, but if I take the camber out of it with adjustable arms, then I introduce more misalignment back into the CV joints and boots.
So, even though I'm a fan of lowered cars (not the leaned in style 300z's, Sylvias, miatas, though
), I'd say hold off on any drastic suspension work until you get some quality driving time. If you aren't really going to track your car much or push the limits with drag radials, you can slam it.
I took a look at this link - are they as easy to install as the picture implies? For a non-mechanic?@SRT Cam This is very good advice and @2ndgen advice about the lowering springs is also very good and true.
See If you have a Differential Brace already, if not and you are going to launch hard, then you want one. They can break and it can take out your Driveshaft and half shaft.
I call the Brace "the best Peace of Mind part installed to my Hellcat.
Per4mance Development SBB Standard Billet Brace for 15-23 Challenger, Charger & 300 5.7/6.2/6.4L HEMI RWD
Per4mance Development SBB Standard Billet Brace for 15-23 Challenger, Charger & 300 5.7/6.2/6.4L HEMI RWDhighhorseperformance.com
Welcome to the forum,
Linda
I think so, I've seen people install them at the track.
Here is a nice video to see what you think.
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I installed one on my 1320 and Hellcat and Im a fat old bastard, easy install. 2 or 4 bolts removed and replaced on the Diff, (depending which brace you buy) and the two that attach it upward to the frame, (those you need small long fingers for because you have to fish nuts in those little oval holes on the chassis but totally do-able)
![Image]()
@HTRon I think this will be even better for you to look at.
@GreenMachine15 has an excellent "Show and Tell" of his install 0f the "Race Brace"
~Linda
@GreenMachine15 has an excellent "Show and Tell" of his install 0f the "Race Brace"
~Linda
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Rob. How did these compare to the Nexen's you had on previously?
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I had (4) Free Nexens left over from my 1320, (2) mounted on extra Wheels w/TPMS so I would have to be crazy not to try them.
The Nexens compared to those POS Pirelli's was a huge difference (improvement) and since they were free and did improve traction I was just going to settle for that (and have (2) xtras) Plus they looked good.
![Image]()
but I immediately realized like the Pirelli's and like when the Nexens were on my old 1320 the wheel hop was bad. I really hated it and I happen to enjoy getting squiggly and do often so I wasn't putting up with that dam Wheel Hop anymore. Plus I knew it needed more sidewall for improved traction, improved looks, and to eliminate the wheel hop.
Heard a lot of good things about 18x10 Bravado Wheels and 305/45R18 NT05R's, a deal I couldn't refuse came up and I bought them.
Virtually eliminates 100% of Wheel Hop instantly and the traction is great, better then the 275/40/20 Nexens and night & day better from those POS 275/40ZR20 Pirellis.
I mean hell it is a HC with over 700HP so you're going to spin anything but its a much more controlled spin and it bites in and hooks so much better
Plus they look awesome. I drive it multi times weekly 12 months a year and I drive it hard, but I keep the miles low and dont drive on wet roads so they're perfect for me
![Image]()
The Nexens compared to those POS Pirelli's was a huge difference (improvement) and since they were free and did improve traction I was just going to settle for that (and have (2) xtras) Plus they looked good.
but I immediately realized like the Pirelli's and like when the Nexens were on my old 1320 the wheel hop was bad. I really hated it and I happen to enjoy getting squiggly and do often so I wasn't putting up with that dam Wheel Hop anymore. Plus I knew it needed more sidewall for improved traction, improved looks, and to eliminate the wheel hop.
Heard a lot of good things about 18x10 Bravado Wheels and 305/45R18 NT05R's, a deal I couldn't refuse came up and I bought them.
Virtually eliminates 100% of Wheel Hop instantly and the traction is great, better then the 275/40/20 Nexens and night & day better from those POS 275/40ZR20 Pirellis.
I mean hell it is a HC with over 700HP so you're going to spin anything but its a much more controlled spin and it bites in and hooks so much better
Plus they look awesome. I drive it multi times weekly 12 months a year and I drive it hard, but I keep the miles low and dont drive on wet roads so they're perfect for me
Hi - where was that deal from, a national/online store by any chance, and would it be repeated? (if it would apply for a 2016 charger HC, that is...)
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I bought them used from someone who sold their car at a very reasonable price and yes they would foit Charger or Challenger regular body
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