Beauty!

 

Just wondering if they have a HP rating? Thanks.

 

The components used will take just about anything you can throw at it really.

The piston doesn't have a hp rating per say but the design is the similar to the design we run in a 2500+ hp twin turbo billet 522 hemi powered race car (diff platform of course but similar structural design and quality. The pins and rings follow the same quality as well.

The rods used are also of race grade quality but meant for street/strip use. The rod bolts have infinite torque cycles. If running a pure race application we would set you up with a GRP alum rod but that would not fare well for a street application however.

The factory crank is a forged steel piece with large rod pins. It will take some serious abuse before letting go or twisting/flexing in any way. We have a lot of other hemi applications running factory forged cranks that withstand well beyond 1000whp. Harrison has made 1400+ in his 94mm turbo Jeep on a factory 6.1 crank if that gives you an idea. If you're planning on running a 4.5L whipple at its full load I would recommend one of our billet cranks made by Winberg however. If you're planning on running a turbo setup, this motor will take any amount boost really. You'll lift the heads before you hurt the motor if the boost is cranked way up as it is.

We're running this same setup in LaserDoc's soon to be TT hellcat with the addition of Oringed block and reciever grooved heads. His heads are built/ported along with an all new high endurance spring set as well new turbo cam to come.

 

Skip
Thanks for the reply you answer all of my questions.

 

No problem sir. If you have any other needs for your application or would like anything changed, we can most certainly customize it for you.

 

Why would you drill all those holes to balance it instead of cutting counter weights down.

 

Cutting a counter weight down is always an option but that only works if you are removing an even amount of material off the whole counter weight itself. Keep in mind it has to be turned down when doing this. If you look at the drilling of the counter weights you'll notice there is more weight pulled from one side of the weight than there is the other to achieve the proper balance for this particular rotator combo. That shows you first hand how far off the factory balance was on this particular OEM HC crank. You'd be shocked to see what some so called engine builders to do cranks. I've seen some counter weight corners completely knifed off at the corners and weights welded back in place, grinders taken to them to "profile" them for aerodynamics, or drilled into the sides of the counter weights to make them look like swiss cheese.

Probably a time/cost issue.
That's also the factory crank I think.

Not really a time/cost issue. Just has to be the right decision for the particular combo. The balancing machine at TKM is probably the best balancer in the world. That is a factory crank however, we can't tell FCA what we want the bob weights to be unfortunately so we have to balance as needed. On the forged aftermarket stroker and billet cranks, we tell the manufacturers the bob weight of the combo we're building. For a fee, they will add/remove the heavy metal by way of the slugs in the counterweights and get us close to where we need to be, if not spot on. Once those cranks arrive at TKM, they will inspect/check bob weight for that piston/rob combo and precision match as/if needed.

 

Probably a time/cost issue.
That's also the factory crank I think.

 

Though it is not a high-yield investment for the street, knife-edging the crank can reduce windage.