I will only say, search the forum, this topic has been discussed numerous time and if you're lucky enough to get a response to this question, it will likely be just like mine telling you to search or you may get something sarcastic. Opinions vary on oil so there's plenty to read if you search and draw your own conclusion.

 

Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic 0 w40

I always use what the manufacturer recommends so I have no issues if warranty questions ever come up.

 

I like Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic and Amsoil 0W40.

 

Thanks.

 

Best advice I can offer is run what the factory says to run. Probably still Pennzoil 0w-40 Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic.

BTW, I got a hot flash (no pun) for you. It ain't that hot in Florida. You want hot? Try sampling 119F ambient temperature in the desert southwest. Heck, even though I don't live in the desert at times it even gets up to 111F just 30 miles east of the SF Bay Area. (The record high here is 116F.) Thankfully it doesn't reach triple digits every day all summer long like southern AZ but we have a few hot spells at various times in the warmer months and temperatures can reach over 100F and hit this several days in a row.

Even in milder temperatures with my 2018 Hellcat I've seen oil temperature reach 230F. I run the 0w-40 Pennzoil oil and the engine's just fine.

My only other advice would be to not run the oil too long. Where I live and drive and how I drive 5K miles (vs. the factory's call for 6K miles) is what change interval I follow. While it doesn't get that hot where you are it is plenty humid and this can result in an above normal water build up in the oil and this water in the oil lowers the oil's ability to do its job.

 

Sweet fancy moses...how in the hell can you deal with that heat....that's crazy...in WNY...if it gets to 90...I melt like a wax candle...and don't give me that dry heat nonsense...an oven is dry...and hot even @ 110

 

What about the oil filter which is best and is there a crush nut ?Thanks

 

A Full Sythentic 0w-40 will work just fine. M1 or Pennzoil or Castrol Edge works just fine. Check with the dealer if they offer a oil change package. Thats always the cheapest.

 

I use a 50/50 canola/peanut blend with a stack of used coffee filters.

 

Mobil 1 0W-40W. OEM is the Penzoil, but I got 222,000 miles out of my '07 300 SRT8 before I sold it. It ran great for 9 years! So I'm sticking with the Mobil 1.

 

Great real world testimonial. What was your oil change routine? I really love the HEMI.

 

I've used M1 on my 2nd gen cts-v I loved it.

 

Stock yes.

Cam/lifters I went with Redline 5w30 per Matt @ GP Tuning.

Hellcat will probably stay 0w40 til voided then go Redline again.

 

Cant go wrong with any 0w-40. Pennzoil and Mobil offer rebates periodically...so I would start there.

 

I changed oil every 5,000 miles and rotated the tires too while the car was on jack stands.

 

Why would any use anything other than o.e.m. weight? As for ambient heat, it doesn't make any difference one way or another..

 

I bought 7 quarts and I've used only 5.5 quarts and it's in the right area on the dip stick?

 

Something is wrong.. you either didn’t drain it well enough and or did not change the filter

 

What about the oil filter which is best and is there a crush nut ?Thanks

For the filter the dealer tech uses the factory recommended Hellcat filter, which may be the SRT filter. I don't have the paperwork to refer to for the part number.

I never bothered to learn if there is a crush washer (nut?) called for. If there is a sealing ring I would replace this every oil service at the drain plug.

 

5038041AA is the filter part number.

As for oil, I just bought Pennzoil Ultra Platinum today with a rebate from Pep Boys. Came to about $6.50 per quart for 12 quarts with tax and after instant rebate.

Amsoil Signature is a category 4 oil, I believe; if I didn't have to pay for the privilege of ordering it cheaper or having it shipped free I'd probably go that route, but Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is supposed to be very good. After shipping or paying to become a member, Amsoil is about $14 per quart.

 

5038041AA is the filter part number.

As for oil, I just bought Pennzoil Ultra Platinum today with a rebate from Pep Boys. Came to about $6.50 per quart for 12 quarts with tax and after instant rebate.

Amsoil Signature is a category 4 oil, I believe; if I didn't have to pay for the privilege of ordering it cheaper or having it shipped free I'd probably go that route, but Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is supposed to be very good. After shipping or paying to become a member, Amsoil is about $14 per quart.

PUP 0W-40 is a natural gas based oil which is (I believe) a group III synthetic. Amsoil is primarily a group IV synthetic (PAO based). Obviously that is only one aspect...have to consider additive package, etc. For the money with rebates PUP or similar is the best deal...not convinced Amsoil is worth the extra coin unless you are extending your oil changes 2-3x. Food for thought.

 

To get technical the filter is the MO-899.

 

Yup, sorry. That's the MOPAR filter, the one that comes with the vehicle. The one I noted was the SRT filter, or the Viper filter.

That one never shows up as fitting our cars, but it does, and over the years people who've used it have spoken of some differences between the two. SRT itself recommends it for track day use.

Sorry for the confusion.

I had ordered one earlier today, canceled it when the fitment guide showed me it didn't fit, then re-ordered it when I double checked old threads here, because I was sure it fit and I thought I must be going crazy.

 

I got the Pennzoil ultra Platinum for $6.08 a quart and the oil filter is the Mopar part#4884899ac.

 

More on the filter "discussion": MO-041 Quality Control

 

What's the main difference between the Mopar and srt filter?

 

Stronger case, higher flow rate, synthetic media, higher bypass ratio so more oil stays filtered, etc., just better overall construction, made for SRT by WIX in Poland and was the standard filter on Viper.


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I can't seem to found where the oil cooler is located at?For future changes.

 

There is another panel that comes off...I believe closer to front of car in relation to oil drain plug. I have 5 more oil changes at my trusted dealer, so haven't done it myself yet. Sure someone on here can help locate it better for you.

 

Personally, I like the car to be cold so ALL of the oil has dropped back down to the pan and filter. This way I know all of the OLD oil is out. That’s my theory and it works for me. I can think of no reason for the oil to be warm other than its rate of flow for draining. Mine takes me about a half an hour , it’s thorough and works for me, not to mention it easier to work when it’s cool.

 

You are going against practically every other authority on oil change protocol. With all makes I'm familiar with the guidelines call for the oil to be drained with the engine up to temperature.

If you are worried about getting all the oil out, you won't with a cold or even a hot drain. But you can get more out by just letting the engine drain longer.

The remaining oil -- which you'll never get out -- will not materially affect the fresh oil. I have to point out the engine was full of this oil you just drained. If just a small fraction of oil is so bad for the fresh oil you should have changed the oil way before you did.

With the oil hot all the contaminants are thoroughly mixed/blended in the oil and this ensures the maximum amount of contamination is removed. By waiting until the oil is cold the contaminates have had a chance to stratify and most are heavier than oil so will remain at the bottom of all the various cavities thus *increasing* the degree which the fresh oil is contaminated by the residual oil.

In short you are doing it all wrong. Bring the engine up to operating temperature. Drain the oil hot. The techs use protective gloves to avoid the hot oil.

After the proper drain interval button up the engine and add however much oil is called for by the factory. With the engine still hot you can then run the engine for a bit and bring the oil up to temperature and check the oil level hot to ensure the engine is full. If you fill the engine cold and bring the oil level up to the max level when hot the oil level can be too high which can increase oil consumption.

 

So will the srt oil filter fit a 392?

 

It fits all engines that take the MO-899


Whether or not it's even needed is a different story.

 

I don't think anyone is meaning any disrespect. However, the last and only time I drained oil cold was on my powerstroke 6.7...I turned on for 5 minutes (was too busy and lazy to drive it before oil change)...I drained and put 13 qts in as usual and overfilled the damn crank. Every time I have changed it at temp I seemed to get more of it out. No more cold changes for me...your mileage may vary.

 

Thank you for the real world experience, few and far these days. I’ve yet to run into an issue. And by no means am I so adamant about doing it this way , it just seems to me that I do my oil changes on Saturday or Sunday mornings and these are the circumstances. Im not saying I wouldn’t change warm oil , just saying I usually don’t. I personally have had no issues and don’t see any arising.


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