Doing a set on a green hellcat right now

 

Doing a set on a green hellcat right now View attachment 5117 View attachment 5118

So no drilling at all front or rear ?

 

5 min with pictures

 

5 min with pictures View attachment 5119

It looks great! Sad I cannot get for the Charger yet...

 

30 mins to an hour for normal humans without super car powers'. Thanks for sharing the install. It helped when I put my front ones on. I didn't mess with back since I don't have proper tools to remove wheels.

 

Advice, I purchased the Splash Guards before picking the car up and had the Dealer install them.

 

Easy to do can do all 4 in 7 min

 

So Doc the web site says 2015 except HC. S they will fit without any special cutting?

 

I'm hoping they have em for the Chargers

 

Does anybody have the part numbers for the 2015 front and rear mudflap set for the Hellcat ?
Thank you those look awesome

 

#82214141 PAIR and #82214142PAIR

 

This place is great ! , thank you

 

You should drill one hole, it's not that big of deal. Seal it with sealant and the screws are rubber coated.

One that thing that doesn't come is any paint protection - I took some black 3M vinyl and cut out a pattern to place on the paint so the edges of the flaps would come in contact with that v the paint. I know my Ford splash guards came with the paint protectors, none with these.

I think using all the fastners and the additional hole will reduce the splash guards from moving around and reduce any wear on the paint. They certainly won't come off if you don't drill the additional hole, but I'm pretty confident you just need to take the appropriate steps to seal the hole/paint.

 

Haven't got mine yet but good points will evaluate before I install them!

 

just did my rears in 15 minutes....didnt remove the wheel...really easy....i had an upholstery tack remover....just jammed it under the plastic rivets (4) each side and popped the heads off....each took 30 seconds or so to pop off....could use a nice sharp small chizel too(just push it through the plastic......then 1 hole is NOT drilled in the plastic wheel well....just turn the screw through it...it basically drills itself through and onto the clip underneath that holds it down.....

no reason to remove the back tires...it is more trouble than its worth +

now i need to figure out how to install the fronts w/o drilling into the metal fender....i really think thats stupid....i see rust coming from that hole in a few years.........i may use my ZL1 version that i also bought....id prefer to use the OEM ones though...may just use 3m tape....looking for opinions on that install???

 

I've just bought a full set plus the jack pad from ZL1Addons

 

i will most likely be giving my new set of ZL1 front mud flaps away for free....anyone interested they can pickup here in Mukwonago,WI....or else ill just toss them

the OEMs are so much more sturdy looking

i will skip the drilling on the fronts...i put the 4th screw 1/2" over into the wheel well plastic....its a sheet metal screw and will thread into plastic...not as sturdy as into the steel fender, but ill add some 3m tape in there too

the rears are mounted perfect and they still all move if you touch them...its all plastic bolted to plastic.....so the fronts moving a bit will just be normal too

 

Yep. I installed the OEM and they are really nice! I did not drill the hole and they are on there just fine!

 

Looks good guys. I will be putting mine on sometime this spring

 

Steve White Motors will sell both front & rear pairs for $108.56 plus shipping. So check there too to see if you can beat other prices with shipping. Oh, and I'm not affiliated with Steve White at all.

Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram - Original Parts - SteveWhiteParts.com

 

Steve White Motors will sell both front & rear pairs for $108.56 plus shipping. So check there too to see if you can beat other prices with shipping. Oh, and I'm not affiliated with Steve White at all.

Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram - Original Parts - SteveWhiteParts.com

I bought mine here. I also got the door sill guards at the same time. Price was very good. Shipping I thought was a bit high but not totally unreasonable either... I'm sort of "ruined" on shipping with Amazon Prime LOL. I want it FAST and I want it CHEAP when it comes to shipping. Even two day shipping seems like a long time now. Amazon really ruined me.

 

I just got my car and my flaps are ordered but not in so I can't say from experience. My plan is to install without drilling the hole. I don't like unnecessary holes. Maybe use some VHB tape if possible (hard to say without seeing them) to help the other fasteners.

If anyone does drill holes get some touch up primer and paint and paint the metal after drilling. Once dry put a dab of clear silicone in the hole before screwing. That should help.

I agree though. I hate drilling holes for stuff like this. Design it smart from start Dodge!

 

Ordered mine today. I installed the OEM version on my 2012 RAM and had the same issue with the fronts. I cringed then drilled, then regretted it. I won't drill into the Challenger's fender, will give the 3M tape a try. I walked away after drilling the RAM thinking well that will be a rust pocket in a few years.

 

The ZL1 addons best, and single highest points are their subtlety. As far as sturdy, they stop rocks just fine, and require NO drilling.
Yes, they do have less surface area, but also don't resemble something you would find on a 4x4 pickup truck either.

And no matter what, this car definitely needs them-and if you go to the track-definitely painter's tape up your rear quarters.

The factory ones are insulting, and this thing throws rocks like a bunch of grade-school boys at an abandoned factory who got into dad's whiskey stash.

 

The ZL1 addons best, and single highest points are their subtlety. As far as sturdy, they stop rocks just fine, and require NO drilling.
Yes, they do have less surface area, but also don't resemble something you would find on a 4x4 pickup truck either.

And no matter what, this car definitely needs them-and if you go to the track-definitely painter's tape up your rear quarters.

The factory ones are insulting, and this thing throws rocks like a bunch of grade-school boys at an abandoned factory who got into dad's whiskey stash.

Now that last line is funny!
How much were the guards?

 

$75 front & rear; may be an introductory price though since they built the rear for me to try.

 

You guys crack me up that you worry rust is going to set in a few years - if properly done, you won't have any issues.

What you will have issues with is improper use of 3M or similar tape that will tape dirt and moisture, giving rust a fighting chance as the corrosion factor goes up. Most just slap it on and never think about drainage or creating a place for water to pool. The other issue is those that use the slip on clip type fastners...if you think those don't rub to bare metal in a few months, better go check your installs.

Just be careful out there, splash guards are a scary thing

 

You guys crack me up that you worry rust is going to set in a few years - if properly done, you won't have any issues.

What you will have issues with is improper use of 3M or similar tape that will tape dirt and moisture, giving rust a fighting chance as the corrosion factor goes up. Most just slap it on and never think about drainage or creating a place for water to pool. The other issue is those that use the slip on clip type fastners...if you think those don't rub to bare metal in a few months, better go check your installs.

Just be careful out there, splash guards are a scary thing

Trust me, if you lived in New England you wouldn't be laughing. It's an issue... You can NEVER be sure it's done properly. You are drilling a hole and you can see or get to the back side. If the paint chips or you don't cover the metal with some touch up 100% it will rust and eat that fender from the inside out.

 

Okay here's my plan , I'm going to JB Weld (glue) a small stud on the fender lip where you would normally drill. Attach mud flap with a small stainless or brass nut. No drilling and semi easy to reverse if needed.

 

Funny - to JB Weld you have to be down to bare metal or it will just pop off the paint. I'm sure there are some glues that you could attach a stud with?

 

Funny - to JB Weld you have to be down to bare metal or it will just pop off the paint. I'm sure there are some glues that you could attach a stud with?

That hasn't been my experience with JB Weld, it will soften the paint and bond strong,that stuff sticks to water (lol) especially with the very light pressure that will be on it.actually done something similar with great results.
Watch how slick it works.

 

i wouldnt use jb weld on a $70k car

why not use duck tape you red neck

 

Just an idea genius , a ******* would use a hammer nails. drill holes in your new $70,000 car if it makes you feel better.

 

3M makes a two sided tape!!, I used it, works perfectly.........lol

 

Of course you can, and with a mirror or scope you can see everything. You can even buy a scope for a smartphone for $99...been invaluable on working on my boat in places no human can see or get to.

Just remember that many of the "rust" proofing systems are applied via holes that are drilled into key places to apply the sealant. Rust proofing plugs are applied to either factory or made or both locations, are pretty common.

More holes are made to prevent rust than you realize

Anyways, to each is own, I just believe there is a lot of worry for nothing. I've only seen two people on this forum paint the factory parts or rotors that are exposed and rusting from day one, yet a tiny properly sealed splash guard hole has folks worried. I understand one is body related and the other are not, but rust from wheels is thrown up on the body from those various parts and the beginning of surface contamination starts.

 

2 sided tape is my fix.....not jb weld

 

smart!!

 

You guys are so funny duck tape is for ******** double-sided tape is for smart people. I don't think the word "tape" and install mud flap should be in the same sentence. Stop fixating on the JB Weld and just picture a little threaded stud sticking up it'll be sweet and clean. When mines done all you see is a flush nut and no rust and will be very secure.
tape to install a mudflap ? seriously "smart" check your tape in a few years of actually driving the car of course if it's just going to sit in your garage tape sounds awesome.

 

You guys are so funny duck tape is for ******** double-sided tape is for smart people. I don't think the word "tape" and install mud flap should be in the same sentence. Stop fixating on the JB Weld and just picture a little threaded stud sticking up it'll be sweet and clean. When mines done all you see is a flush nut and no rust and will be very secure.
tape to install a mudflap ? seriously "smart" check your tape in a few years of actually driving the car of course if it's just going to sit in your garage tape sounds awesome.

I will be happy to check it in 2 yrs and send you a pic!!....