Have to leave the sub in the car, so no trunk mounted reservoir/ice box.

What pump are you using on your system? Did it cause any issues with CEL or tuning?

 

A little antifreeze does the trick

 

Pump is CWA400. Spendy but with the cost of the motor build you just can’t afford to shortcut this part.
My builder and tuner hasn’t mentioned any tuning issues. I do get a coolant low message from time to time but with 8 gals of extra coolant on board I can’t foresee any problems. Elton says the car will eventually figure it out Thy have a lot of experience with these systems ,they would know. I’ve seen super low temps especially when you load the tank with ice. That’s what kills these ultra high hp modded motors.
I love the piece of mind.

 

I mounted my sub up top in the trunk. Pretty slick and functional.
if needed I would have dropped the cab. The cooling ability is just way to importhat.

 

Awesome! That is the pump that is available, so I am going to get that one.

Are you saying that running a little anti freeze in the system affects whether the CEL comes on?

 

Yes when it gets cold enough
doesn’t take much

 

Yes when it gets cold enough
doesn’t take much

Here is the wiring for the CWA400 pump:

Any ideas on the wiring for the stock pump? I have a service manual, but it's a pdf and all the wiring diagrams in it are so fuzzy I can't even read them (and yes I was wearing my trifocals). It's a pain to use since you just have to scroll through everything.

Planning to install the pump next week and trying to get things as figured out as possible before working on it.

Or is the layout typically the same for all pumps like this? It would be the same as above, but maybe a different style connector on the wire harness for the stock pump?

 

the stock pump is connected to the low speed lin bus (telematics)

you will have to disable the cel in the tune as the lin bus will fault.

 

I contacted HHP and they checked with one of their tech guys, and the wiring from stock to CWA pump would be the following:

Stock CWA400
1 . . . . . . .4
2 3
3 2
4 1

They also said that it should work without having to do anything in the tune, but if there is an issue, they can turn off whatever needs to be turned off, etc.

Will find out soon enough when I install the new pump, probably this week.

 

I had my builder run 1 1/2 on both inlet and return.
don’t know if it was absolutely needed but I run constantly 10 degrees above ambient. Cruising down the highway it stays about 5 degrees or less than ambient.
when I drop it in track mode it cools right on down10 to 15 degrees below ambient.
that’s about as good as it gets.

 

Sounds like that works.

We are just going to make our own couplers out of aluminum to get from the 1 1/2" inlet/outlet on the new pump to the 3/4" hose in the rest of the system.

Made one of the brackets for mounting the pump, and will make the second bracket tomorrow. Had to take the front fascia off to work on this. Basically removed the bracket that holds the stock HE on the drivers side and is also held in place by two of the IC pump bolts.

The clocking on the new pump is just fine, but the mounting tabs are way off, so you have to make your own brackets for it. Who would have thought that a pump made for a BMW wouldn't just mount right up in a Hellcat.

Thanks for the help!

 

In an effort to boldly go where nobody (sensible) has gone before, we installed the CWA400 pump in the stock location. Below are pics of the brackets we made and the reducers. When I say "we", I mean that I sanded the brackets, bead blasted them, spray painted them, and installed them, and uncle did everything else, lol. For the reducers, the issue is the CWA pump has 1.5" inlet and outlet and the stock pump has 1". Here is a link for a place that sells hoses that go from 1.5 to 1". 1.5 to 1" hose . I would suggest going that route, unless you have a lathe and just like making stuff. Napa didn't have anything close. My uncle machined reducers out of aluminum because we wanted to get it done, but I would strongly suggest buying the hoses and then you would need a 1" to 1" barbed adapter to put everything together.

The small factory HE and the pump sit in a steel frame sort of thing, so you can take that out and build the brackets, etc on the work bench. We removed the front fascia. Took 10 minutes. We've done it a couple of times before. Well, about a dozen times if you include taking it on and off while checking fitment for the Bwoody HE when trimming the fascia.

The clocking of the CWA pump is actually about perfect, but the mounted tabs are completely in the wrong place.

 

Actually, what someone would do is get the 1.5 to 1" hose I linked to above, and then get a 1" to 3/4" hose barb adapter. That would be pretty slick.

Bhoward and I were discussing the EMP pump, which you can't get right now, and a considerations in trying to mount that in the stock location are the size of the EMP pump. It quite a bit bigger. The 400 pump is pretty compact, and it only has 4 wires, just like the stock pump.

I am still finishing up the wiring so we will see what the computer thinks of the pump when I am done with that.

 

Got the wiring done and ran the car for a few minutes. All appears to be good to go. Will test drive it in the next few days.

 

The pump is not working. Here is what's happened so far. Initially I wired it up and then as soon as I hooked the battery up, the pump started running. So I looked at the diagram stuff posted above and saw that I had something turned around. Well, I switched it and the pump still didn't run. I have tried all the combinations you can. There are two 10g wires and 2 16 g, and I haven't gone from 10g to 16g cause it just doesn't seem like that would even be an option.

So, I wire it up the way I had it originally where it comes on as soon as the battery is hooked up, and the pump doesn't come on, in fact made a strange noise I think in the hose.

I think it's air locked, same as the last one did. It should have come on when I hooked up the battery but nothing.

I know I don't have a vacuum leak because I put the vacuum to it and it held it constant the other day when I filled it up.

Maybe the stock system is designed in such a way that it's susceptible to getting air stuck in it and it's very finicky. Seems like a number of people have had issues with this. I've never had a problems with a cooling system before like this.

So, I have thought about this some more and I am dealing with two problems. One is the air in the system problem and the other is figuring out the new pump.

I am going to put the stock pump back on and remove the BMR reservoir and see if I can get the system/car to work properly.

Anyway, that's what I am going to do and just try to get the car running. If it were winter, that's one thing, but it's summer and the car needs to be running.

In other words, strike one. (Two? Three?)

 

Bhoward is working on this same project on his car, and so the baton has been passed (for now) on this mod. I have to get the car driveable again, lol.

 

Any update on this? Was it resolved?

 

Damn. I'm sorry to hear about these problems.
I want to thank you for the write up pictures, and explanations.
You're a benefit to the community and I appreciate the insights you're providing.

 

Hey, no update. Well, I found that a fuse was blown and my pump is not working even after replacing the fuse. I have tried three pumps on the car. I don't have a shop manual or wiring diagram to see where else there could be a fuse or relay, like inline or something. I plan to reload the tune, but I have no idea if that will make any difference. Just figured it's one other thing to try.

I checked in the fuse box and there is power there. I then checked the connector to the IC pump on the car harness to see if there is power there, and there isn't. Unless someone on here has an idea, and if reloading the tune makes no difference (doesn't seem like it would), then I'll have to take it to the dealership. There's got to be some other fuse or relay somewhere in the system/circuit.

Short answer is that it hasn't been resolved. I have switched back to a stock pump and the stock reservoir for now.

 

Well one other thing. The CWA 400 pump blew the fuse, but I had the wiring turned around. The pump would run as soon as the battery was hooked up. It also caused the message about diagnostics to come up on the car's display. I need to check that still. Hopefully the PCM turned off the pump to save itself, and if I reset everything it will work again, but I have no idea since I don't know much about how the computer end of this works.

 

I posted what's below this paragraph on another thread, and am just copying and pasting it here to be thorough, and be sure that my error has been noted by all. I consider the work, time, and money spent on this IC pump endeavor to be "taking one for the team", and hopefully Bhoward will get the CWA400 pump and the HE and reservoir and the rest working really well.

So the saga of the IC pump has reached its conclusion for me. As I mentioned above, the aftermarket pump blew a fuse due to a wiring snafu caused by me. I replaced the fuse and put the stock pump back in and removed the BMR tank. Well, no power to the pump and just couldn't figure it out. . .wait for it. . . .

So. . .uhm. . . well... turns out. . . yes. . . when I replaced the fuse I put it in the wrong slot. The lesson cost me $212.00 at the dealership since the tech figured I had a clue, and so he did all the diagnostics and stuff before looking at the fuse box, lol.

As mentioned earlier, I am sticking with the stock reservoir and stock IC pump. Looking forward to getting back to the track and running the car, though the next races aren't for about three weeks.

Okay, let the snarky comments begin.

 

Hc
Mo snarky comm here. I would have done much worse probably knowing my limited knowledge of electrical systems.
That’s why my builder installed all my stuff so I can’t help with this, otherwise I would jump in. My system works great but that’s because I had it done as part of my build. I only know there’s 3 types of electricity.
the system has really helped in the Las Vegas heat this summer.
I swear by it because it just works. A lot of people here in Vegas run them because of the oppressive temps here in the summer.
Hope you get it figured out because it is a great mod.
Good luck.

 

So with the HE and the stock pump driving around yesterday it was 92 deg ambient and the IC coolant temp was 101, so if it is within 10 degrees of ambient I am happy with that. After cool down racing, it should be under 105 no matter the ambient temp, and that's really all it needs to be for it to run at max power.

Yes, in both cases, as far as the wiring and the fuse, I had been thrashing on the car(s) non-stop for a couple of weeks, and was just a little fried. It happens. But it's a good reminder to always go back to the basics, the simplist things first, and check and recheck, when trouble shooting.

 

My Trackhawk may be diff, but then I was running the stock supercharger cooling setup, my I/C temps were usually around 5* over ambient. Not much of a diff with your temps.

 

Good deal.

 

The are 2 big adavan to the pump and big tank. You have 8 gallons more coolant which will take longer to heat up. The big thing is when at the track you fill tank with ice and the temps just drop out of sight. i ice it down right after the run drain out the h2o and ice it right before the run.
Those are the two biggest benefits and the ice makes it a huge deal.
hope this helps.

 

The main reason I had added the tank was just to increase coolant capacity. I get some increased capacity from the HE also. It should take longer for everything to heat up now.

I went for a longer cruise yesterday and IC temps on the highway were 5* above ambient, and 5-7* putzing through town. I might just take a cooler of ice and one of those portable sprayers and spray down the HE between rounds when it's 95-100* out.

At this point, I just want the car driveable. I'm building an LS bracket car out of my mustang, so I have that to work on.

 

I have taken about 15 1/8 mile runs now with the stock IC pump and no BMR tank. No problems whatsoever. No IC coolant low messages and everything is back to normal.