Hello guys , new to the forum here . Just picked up a leftover 2020 hellcat from a local dealer here in socal . At approx 300 miles my check engine light came on , so of course , I took it to the dealer . They quickly flashed it and said it was a pcm 0430 code “ catalyst system below efficiency bank 2” . The service writer said that they could probably fix it with a software update . I left the car there , came back two hours later and picked up the vehicle . They told me that they drove it 20 miles and it did not throw the code again , and I was good to go . The same evening I drove it down the beach and back with no issues . When I got back it was a little low on fuel so I decided to fuel it up . As soon as I left the gas station , wham ! The check engine light came on again . The next day I went back to the dealer and they reset the code . I proceeded to drive the car for a while with no issues , until I got gas again . The same exact thing happened - as soon as I fueled up I drove the car for a few minutes and the check engine light came back on . I’ve called multiple service departments and every person I’ve talked to has assured me that the car is fine to drive and that it won’t compromise the car in any way . They’re all assuring me that did some sort of glitch in the cpu , or a faulty 02 sensor at worst . With the car having so few miles on it , that seems reasonable to me but I’m still a little worried . Has anyone else had an experience similar to this ? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated
Blackcattt
The dreaded check engine light (300 miles on car )
Since it happens after you fill with fuel, I would have them check/replace the fuel cap.
Are you tightening the gas cap until you hear at least (3) audible clicks?
When your filling up, don't "top off" the fuel after the pump stops.
.
Are you tightening the gas cap until you hear at least (3) audible clicks?
When your filling up, don't "top off" the fuel after the pump stops.
.
Fairly common. Mine had a sensor replaced and ultimately the catalyst. After that, no more issue.
Thanks for the feedback . In the meantime , should I continue driving the car ? No chance of harming anything correct ?
One other thing I didn’t mention - it did shut off for a brief period of time yesterday . I parked the car all day at work and then it came back on on my drive home at night
Not a "glitch".
Probably not an O2 sensor problem.
With another car with a P0430 error code (or a P0420 error code, the converter on the other bank) the SOP was to clear the code. Road test the car. If the code came back and was accompanied by any O2 sensor error codes that arise from "aging" sensors to replace the sensors pointed to by the sensor codes. Clear the codes. Road test the car, again. If the P0430/P0420 code came back replace the converter.
With a new car there is a high probability the converter is just bad. Water pumps can fail early. Fuel pumps can fail early. Why not converters?
(I had a converter generate a P0430 error code for some time. The problem arose from the exhaust system, specifically the converter housing, was hit by a big chunk of concrete. The impact caused the converter "brick" to come loose. Occasionally it would shift position and not operate as efficiently. But upon full cool down and restart it was back to where it would work ok. The brick manifested a dull knocking sound when the engine was cold. When hot the brick buzzed like crazy. Car out of warranty. I bought a pair of used exhaust manifolds/converters (integrated in the manifold) and had the tech replace them. No more noise. No more P0430.)
But a tech would make sure the exhaust system is leak free. Unlikely there is a leak as this would almost certainly result in an O2 sensor error code but I suspect the factory has a procedure to follow to eliminate other possible explanations to avoid replacing a converter when the exhaust has an easily fixable leak.
To put it bluntly you need to say BS to that glitch cause explanation or sensor problem explanation and insist the problem be found and addressed. As long as you continue to accept those lame ass explanations you are going to have the CEL appear every so often.
Remind the dealer you were assured if you bought the car it would be serviced by factory trained techs. You have not received the quality of service you were led to believe you would receive. That's consumer fraud. Let it "slip" you might have to pursue a consumer fraud complaint against this dealer if the problem is not fixed.
The malfunctioning converter means the car is not emissions compliant. Hint that if this problem is not addressed to your satisfaction and pronto you could contact the state's emissions agency or even the EPA to find out what your options are.
Last but not least you probably want to familiarize yourself with the lemon law in your state and build a case just in case. So many trips to the shop for the same problem so many days without the car this all adds up to the car may be a lemon.
Probably not an O2 sensor problem.
With another car with a P0430 error code (or a P0420 error code, the converter on the other bank) the SOP was to clear the code. Road test the car. If the code came back and was accompanied by any O2 sensor error codes that arise from "aging" sensors to replace the sensors pointed to by the sensor codes. Clear the codes. Road test the car, again. If the P0430/P0420 code came back replace the converter.
With a new car there is a high probability the converter is just bad. Water pumps can fail early. Fuel pumps can fail early. Why not converters?
(I had a converter generate a P0430 error code for some time. The problem arose from the exhaust system, specifically the converter housing, was hit by a big chunk of concrete. The impact caused the converter "brick" to come loose. Occasionally it would shift position and not operate as efficiently. But upon full cool down and restart it was back to where it would work ok. The brick manifested a dull knocking sound when the engine was cold. When hot the brick buzzed like crazy. Car out of warranty. I bought a pair of used exhaust manifolds/converters (integrated in the manifold) and had the tech replace them. No more noise. No more P0430.)
But a tech would make sure the exhaust system is leak free. Unlikely there is a leak as this would almost certainly result in an O2 sensor error code but I suspect the factory has a procedure to follow to eliminate other possible explanations to avoid replacing a converter when the exhaust has an easily fixable leak.
To put it bluntly you need to say BS to that glitch cause explanation or sensor problem explanation and insist the problem be found and addressed. As long as you continue to accept those lame ass explanations you are going to have the CEL appear every so often.
Remind the dealer you were assured if you bought the car it would be serviced by factory trained techs. You have not received the quality of service you were led to believe you would receive. That's consumer fraud. Let it "slip" you might have to pursue a consumer fraud complaint against this dealer if the problem is not fixed.
The malfunctioning converter means the car is not emissions compliant. Hint that if this problem is not addressed to your satisfaction and pronto you could contact the state's emissions agency or even the EPA to find out what your options are.
Last but not least you probably want to familiarize yourself with the lemon law in your state and build a case just in case. So many trips to the shop for the same problem so many days without the car this all adds up to the car may be a lemon.
That’s what I figured . I assumed there would be a major liability if they let me loose on the streets with an issue that could cause any damage to the vehicle . Should I take it easy ? Or should I continue “ normal driving “ 🤗🤗
Get your salesman and the service manager involved.
Drop the car off, call FCA, and then call the salesman, service writer, and service manager every day until its done.
Just clearing the code will do nothing but waste your time.
Drop the car off, call FCA, and then call the salesman, service writer, and service manager every day until its done.
Just clearing the code will do nothing but waste your time.
Something you could try if you have the ability, and may save a lot of time taking it back and forth to the dealer. Swap the rear o2 sensors behind the catalysts and see if the problem follows it to the other bank. If so, the sensor may be faulty. If not, the catalytic may be the problem..Not sure if the dealer would apply logical thinking to the problem or not.
I would find a good dealer that will address the problem and fix it. Not to just clear the code.
Circle around the dealer until it comes back on and pull it in. Uber back home or work, or to a rental car agency to pick up your own rental.
My 2 cats were scheduled for replacement, from a mfg recall. They had it done in 3 hrs.
They were out of loaner cars as well, my suv was in the garage, but they paid for an uber to and from the dealer.
Circle around the dealer until it comes back on and pull it in. Uber back home or work, or to a rental car agency to pick up your own rental.
My 2 cats were scheduled for replacement, from a mfg recall. They had it done in 3 hrs.
They were out of loaner cars as well, my suv was in the garage, but they paid for an uber to and from the dealer.
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