2 Snakes I know this doesn't directly answer your question; because, I don't have the answer, but, I find this interesting because there's a lot of input on the forum that suggests we should put the suspension in "STREET" to help shift some weight to the back at the drag strip.

My friend ran his 2016 A8 Hellcat with a set of 275/40/20 Mickey Thompson ET Street SS tires, otherwise bone stock and made 6 passes; (2) 11.2 passes and (4) 11.0 passes.

The (2) 11.2 passes he had the suspension in "STREET" and had wheel hop which was VERY noticeable.

The (4) 11.0 passes he had the suspension in "TRACK" with ZERO wheel hop with one of the passes @ 11.01.

Maybe putting the suspension in "street" with Pirelli tires is the way to go ???? ------ but NOT with drag radials on a prepped track.

 

T

2 Snakes I know this doesn't directly answer your question; because, I don't have the answer, but, I find this interesting because there's a lot of input on the forum that suggests we should put the suspension in "STREET" to help shift some weight to the back at the drag strip.

My friend ran his 2016 A8 Hellcat with a set of Mickey Thompson ET Street SS tires, otherwise bone stock and made 6 passes; (2) 11.2 passes and (4) 11.0 passes.

The (2) 11.2 passes he had the suspension in "STREET" and had wheel hop which was VERY noticeable.

The (4) 11.0 passes he had the suspension in "TRACK" with ZERO wheel hop with one of the passes @ 11.01.

Maybe putting the suspension in "street" with Pirelli tires is the way to go ???? ------ but NOT with drag radials on a prepped track.

Thanks Rollieman

 

Redeye has the same suspension, it hops. I have felt mine even try it at speeds over 40 mph!! I am not even going to attempt and aggressive starts from a stop until I install at least a differential brace.

 

Even on the 1-2 it wheel hops.

 

Punched it at 60 mph it damn hops! Stabbed it at 70..... a simulated hand appeared on the dash display and flipped me off! Seriously, it downshifted, spin, hit the limiter, and then flipped me off and said don't even think of doing that again Mister!

 

I haven't experienced the wheel hop street or track, street tires or drag radials. Mine is a 2016 Charger HC...I read about wheel hop on other threads...is this happening to most or just a few?

 

I think most are having issues with wheel hop, especially M6 drivers. I had a 15' HC M6 with 3 season summer stock tires and it would wheel hop all the damn time. I know the A8s are as bad for wheel hop in general vs the M6. My RE is quite awesome imo compared to my M6. I have a standard body with the stock all seasons on it. I keep everything in street mode and the car does a pretty damn good job imo of keeping the car under control. It spins a good deal yes, but I have experienced no wheel hop. I know some of it can be terrible uneven roads, making hop worse, but so far spinning is my only issue and I'd much rather have that then hoping. Even spinning I can feel the car in street mode try and moderate the power to the rear wheels to get me traction. Very happy with my A8 RE, the M6 not so much. It was quite embarrassing how much it hopped.

If you are having wheel hope you can try a diff brace or the new DIRS that strengthens the rear diff area and plants the car better. I have one ordered and if its anything like my old brace, it helps a lot with planting the car!

 

I get wheel hop when I stand on the throttle while driving, in-town, on the highway, just about anywhere. Is a differential brace the fix? I don't race, just "normal" driving for me. Even my wife noticed the wheel hop.

Rob

 

In my experience, the only thing that will fix wheel hop is better tires or suspension modifications. Tires are the best place to start. A diff. brace will not do anything to remedy it.

 

I had it on my '11 SRT 392, and have had it on my '15 HC. It bangs pretty loud when it does. I can see it easily destroying a rear end or damaging a driveshaft if you don't let off. I know they used to sell "hop-not" kits and such...but even then some say even adding the kit doesn't work all the time. I've yet to hear about a sure fire solution for it.

 

Any resolutions to the wheel hop on the widebody redeyes? Currently have OEM all seasons. Gonna go to toyo r888r when they burn off.

 

For my REWB I have a bag of Whiteline Bushings ready to install. Soon I will be ordering both top connector arms along with a Trailing Arm. I already have the DIRS Brace. That should do it the same as any LX, because nothing is different except the wheels and their backset on a Widebody.

I have four of those tires on my OEM set of wheels. They are the most noisy rolling rocks I have ever used. Also not sticky at all on a street. Maybe one or two more days on the track and I will gleefully burn the living crap out of the rears, and confirm my car don't hop any more. Then I never want to see a set of them again.

I have the toyo r888r on my 6 gen zl1 and I love them. The noise isnt bad. Performance over everything else.

 

For my REWB I have a bag of Whiteline Bushings ready to install. Soon I will be ordering both top connector arms along with a Trailing Arm. I already have the DIRS Brace. That should do it the same as any LX, because nothing is different except the wheels and their backset on a Widebody.

I have four of those tires on my OEM set of wheels. They are the most noisy rolling rocks I have ever used. Also not sticky at all on a street. Maybe one or two more days on the track and I will gleefully burn the living crap out of the rears, and confirm my car don't hop any more. Then I never want to see a set of them again.

 

Debating the cart before the horse makes no sense if you dont know what cargo youre trying to pull first. In other words I think figuring out where wheel hop comes from is the first step. From what I have felt in the past it feels like it just comes from the slip/grip/slip/grip of the tires, thus the reason everyone says stickier tires cures it. Just grip.
Ive never done the brace but it sounds like it would allow less movement back there in case the tires do go into that slip/grip cycle. Then theres the rear control arm with new upgraded bushings that some have done and raved about. Apparently also stiffening up the rear and basically not allowing everything to move around and set off the cycle.
To me it seems at least for street use that stickier tires would be the way to go. But then to protect the rear maybe a brace as well. In my opinion tires make the difference and the rest is insurance.
Racing obviously puts more stress on everything and changes things, but I think for most of us just having fun from a dig or roll on in the street, tires are the ticket.

 

I have the @Per4Mance Development Brace more because if the wheel hop happens your gear box can break and also along with it can take a driveshaft or half shaft with it.
I can attest it can happen and I have peace of mind having the P4 Brace on.

Linda

 

Also the best thing I know to help with wheel hop is 1. During the burnout you do not want your car to swerve out in the back, plant your foot down hard on the brake to try to keep your car straight.
2. you don't want to dead stop after the burnout and then continue forward But rather roll out as smoothly and straight as possible. If you dead stop you can leave a little pile of clumped up rubber to pick up going forward. Ugggh!



Linda

 

Oh, and make sure the water box is wet!

Linda

 

@Slowpoke387 the hop is caused by the "slop" in the rear bushings. The rear cradle bushings make a big difference, if you can also get the differential bushings and control arms, it is nearly good to go. You need to balance how much of a ride you will give up.

For me the poly Whiteline bushings don't screw up the NVH very much (tried it on the '15), I need/want the camber adjustability so when they drop the cradle. I'll also have the two top arms and some fixed tension arms pit on. That should make my rear feel better on the course. Sorta the same plus springs are going up front.