[DuvShack]

Bhoward is working on this same project on his car, and so the baton has been passed (for now) on this mod. I have to get the car driveable again, lol.

Any update on this? Was it resolved?

 

[HC5120]

Hey, no update. Well, I found that a fuse was blown and my pump is not working even after replacing the fuse. I have tried three pumps on the car. I don't have a shop manual or wiring diagram to see where else there could be a fuse or relay, like inline or something. I plan to reload the tune, but I have no idea if that will make any difference. Just figured it's one other thing to try.

I checked in the fuse box and there is power there. I then checked the connector to the IC pump on the car harness to see if there is power there, and there isn't. Unless someone on here has an idea, and if reloading the tune makes no difference (doesn't seem like it would), then I'll have to take it to the dealership. There's got to be some other fuse or relay somewhere in the system/circuit.

Short answer is that it hasn't been resolved. I have switched back to a stock pump and the stock reservoir for now.

 

[HC5120]

Well one other thing. The CWA 400 pump blew the fuse, but I had the wiring turned around. The pump would run as soon as the battery was hooked up. It also caused the message about diagnostics to come up on the car's display. I need to check that still. Hopefully the PCM turned off the pump to save itself, and if I reset everything it will work again, but I have no idea since I don't know much about how the computer end of this works.

 

[HC5120]

I posted what's below this paragraph on another thread, and am just copying and pasting it here to be thorough, and be sure that my error has been noted by all. I consider the work, time, and money spent on this IC pump endeavor to be "taking one for the team", and hopefully Bhoward will get the CWA400 pump and the HE and reservoir and the rest working really well.

So the saga of the IC pump has reached its conclusion for me. As I mentioned above, the aftermarket pump blew a fuse due to a wiring snafu caused by me. I replaced the fuse and put the stock pump back in and removed the BMR tank. Well, no power to the pump and just couldn't figure it out. . .wait for it. . . .

So. . .uhm. . . well... turns out. . . yes. . . when I replaced the fuse I put it in the wrong slot. The lesson cost me $212.00 at the dealership since the tech figured I had a clue, and so he did all the diagnostics and stuff before looking at the fuse box, lol.

As mentioned earlier, I am sticking with the stock reservoir and stock IC pump. Looking forward to getting back to the track and running the car, though the next races aren't for about three weeks.

Okay, let the snarky comments begin.

 

[Hossfly]

Hc
Mo snarky comm here. I would have done much worse probably knowing my limited knowledge of electrical systems.
That’s why my builder installed all my stuff so I can’t help with this, otherwise I would jump in. My system works great but that’s because I had it done as part of my build. I only know there’s 3 types of electricity.
the system has really helped in the Las Vegas heat this summer.
I swear by it because it just works. A lot of people here in Vegas run them because of the oppressive temps here in the summer.
Hope you get it figured out because it is a great mod.
Good luck.

 

[HC5120]

So with the HE and the stock pump driving around yesterday it was 92 deg ambient and the IC coolant temp was 101, so if it is within 10 degrees of ambient I am happy with that. After cool down racing, it should be under 105 no matter the ambient temp, and that's really all it needs to be for it to run at max power.

Yes, in both cases, as far as the wiring and the fuse, I had been thrashing on the car(s) non-stop for a couple of weeks, and was just a little fried. It happens. But it's a good reminder to always go back to the basics, the simplist things first, and check and recheck, when trouble shooting.

 

[DuvShack]

So with the HE and the stock pump driving around yesterday it was 92 deg ambient and the IC coolant temp was 101, so if it is within 10 degrees of ambient I am happy with that. After cool down racing, it should be under 105 no matter the ambient temp, and that's really all it needs to be for it to run at max power.

Yes, in both cases, as far as the wiring and the fuse, I had been thrashing on the car(s) non-stop for a couple of weeks, and was just a little fried. It happens. But it's a good reminder to always go back to the basics, the simplist things first, and check and recheck, when trouble shooting.

My Trackhawk may be diff, but then I was running the stock supercharger cooling setup, my I/C temps were usually around 5* over ambient. Not much of a diff with your temps.

 

[Hossfly]

Good deal.

 

[HC5120]

My Trackhawk may be diff, but then I was running the stock supercharger cooling setup, my I/C temps were usually around 5* over ambient. Not much of a diff with your temps.

I was just strolling through town with the car, so only going 10-25 mph. I need to see what it does on the interstate. But it will be around there I would think. The bigger question is how much it comes down after a run and if it stays lower while in the staging lanes, etc. It was pretty hot outside, too, mid 90s. Seems like my outside temp gauge on the car is always low a few degrees, so mine is pretty similar to yours.

From talking to a tuner, the pump is set to run at a certain temp, low/high, and my tuner said he doesn't like to mess with that setting because the pumps are very finicky. I think it's like 105 degrees.

 

[Hossfly]

The are 2 big adavan to the pump and big tank. You have 8 gallons more coolant which will take longer to heat up. The big thing is when at the track you fill tank with ice and the temps just drop out of sight. i ice it down right after the run drain out the h2o and ice it right before the run.
Those are the two biggest benefits and the ice makes it a huge deal.
hope this helps.

 

[HC5120]

The main reason I had added the tank was just to increase coolant capacity. I get some increased capacity from the HE also. It should take longer for everything to heat up now.

I went for a longer cruise yesterday and IC temps on the highway were 5* above ambient, and 5-7* putzing through town. I might just take a cooler of ice and one of those portable sprayers and spray down the HE between rounds when it's 95-100* out.

At this point, I just want the car driveable. I'm building an LS bracket car out of my mustang, so I have that to work on.

 

[HC5120]

I have taken about 15 1/8 mile runs now with the stock IC pump and no BMR tank. No problems whatsoever. No IC coolant low messages and everything is back to normal.

 

[Hossfly]

At the boost level I’m running with a big old slug of nos And E 85 I can’t see a better way to go.
These motors when built right love dat giggle gas

 

[ScLeCo]

I just broke down and bought the FI interchiller. I'm giving up on the heat exchanger.

 

[HC5120]

Good idea. If my only consideration were drag racing, I'd have done the same. Of course, any system can be a problem, but it looks like for straight line racing, the FI kit works really well.

Are you going to add a larger reservoir? In the directions to the FI kit, they say what size you need to have for a 1/4 mile car. Can't remember the capacity they recommend, though.

 

[ScLeCo]

I don't know. I got the stage 2 kit I think I'm just going to see how that does on it's own and worry about a larger reservoir down the road if I have to.

 

[HC5120]

Good idea. Change as little as possible to get to where you want to be. Let us know how it works with the stock reservoir/coolant capacity.

 

[ScLeCo]

Hey so in your research into IC pumps did you happen to come across the EMP WP32-12V-CD-A?
I got a chance to buy one and I'm trying to figure out the difference between it and the E2512A.

 

[HC5120]

I haven't looked into that one. One question I would have is whether or not it will fit in the space where the stock one is, with that the EMP having that rectangular part on it like that and also the clocking of it.

 

[ksilovich]

Just an FYI I think you have the CWA400 wired up wrong You cannot use the factory LIN BUS wire. That needs to be removed from the connector and terminated.

What you want to do
Stock -> CWA400
1 -> 4 (Ground)
2 -> 3 (Battery Power)
3 -> 1 (ASD Output = +12v when engine running)
4 -> NA (Lin Bus NOT USED)
Then for pin 2 on the CWA you need to ground it.

The way the CWA400 works is when there is +12/GND on the PWM signal wires it will go into a safe mode and run the pump at 95% speed. Now I dont have this in a car, but we were doing bench testing to use this pump in some of our stand alone kits. And just wanted to try to be helpful as I think I saw your mistake.

Also you will throw a fault code for no communication to the pump, so you will have to go in with HPT and disable that code.